Holy #%$&*!!!!!

indy_500

Well-known member
Take a lookey here. Anybody see something wrong?
 

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eagle1

Well-known member
Tic,tic,tic. I take it you found the noise,bummer. At least its at the end of the season and not during.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Tic,tic,tic. I take it you found the noise,bummer. At least its at the end of the season and not during.

It could be the noise. Do not know for sure. I think I should be able to JB Weld the little crack in the chaincase itself, i'm going to tap out the threads bigger and put a bigger grade 8 bolt in there instead. Anybody know the length of the bolt? I just need to get the flippin rear suspension out!!! STUPID COUPLERS!!!
 

indy_500

Well-known member
I still think the tick is the powervalves. Still ran good tonight... It looks as if it's been this way awhile.

Anybody know the length of the bolt? i've read that some like to use a grade 5 instead of 8 but I don't feel comfortable doing that.
 
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kmlaw2

New member
indy 500

Son in law had this happen to a 600 poo. Broke chain case ,chain. Not good.
Put a allen bolt back in. They had a problem with this.Dealer said never had it happen be for?????
 
I still think the tick is the powervalves. Still ran good tonight... It looks as if it's been this way awhile.

Anybody know the length of the bolt? i've read that some like to use a grade 5 instead of 8 but I don't feel comfortable doing that.

Yeah I've had that happen to me on a ONE WEEK old 2002 EDGE-X 800 up in the Mountains late at night just outside of YELLOWSTONE. Mine broke the adjuster and not the housing instead, had to tow it out and called for taxi service to pick us up.

When the machine shop drilled out the bolt on the lathe, he said it was "soft metal" and that was the factory POLARIS 5/16" bolt.

I ran the stock size 5/16" bolts, drove the sled another 6000+ miles, NO problems!

If you're ripping it apart, drill for the LARGER 3/8" coarse or fine, take your pick.

USE a grade #8 bolt NOTHING LESS!

Bolt length is approx 1", clean the threads w/Brake-clean, use RED Loctite and let dry overnight, torque to specs!

As posted in my TECH TIPS THREAD, place a 12" or so metal rule on the sprockets, shim with 1" I.D. automotive style valve spring shims to align the top + bottom sprockets perfectly!

I'd shop around for a used chain-case housing, they're plentiful and cheap

I'd replace ALL the bearings while apart, the chain-case bearings are #6205 standard at any auto parts store, same bearings are used in your bogey wheels with adapters.

Replace your speedo side bearing too, that's a POLARIS or "ALL BALLS" kit

Hope this helps
 
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tourguide

New member
Both my edge chassis did this at 4,000 miles, drilled one, had to replace one, oh the one I replaced, the new part had the 3/8 bolt. Oh well, still great machines.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Yeah I've had that happen to me on a ONE WEEK old 2002 EDGE-X 800 up in the Mountains late at night just outside of YELLOWSTONE. Mine broke the adjuster and not the housing instead, had to tow it out and called for taxi service to pick us up.

When the machine shop drilled out the bolt on the lathe, he said it was "soft metal" and that was the factory POLARIS 5/16" bolt.

I ran the stock size 5/16" bolts, drove the sled another 6000+ miles, NO problems!

If you're ripping it apart, drill for the LARGER 3/8" coarse or fine, take your pick.

USE a grade #8 bolt NOTHING LESS!

Bolt length is approx 1", clean the threads w/Brake-clean, use RED Loctite and let dry overnight, torque to specs!

As posted in my TECH TIPS THREAD, place a 12" or so metal rule on the sprockets, shim with 1" I.D. automotive style valve spring shims to align the top + bottom sprockets perfectly!

I'd shop around for a used chain-case housing, they're plentiful and cheap

I'd replace ALL the bearings while apart, the chain-case bearings are #6205 standard at any auto parts store, same bearings are used in your bogey wheels with adapters.

Replace your speedo side bearing too, that's a POLARIS or "ALL BALLS" kit

Hope this helps

I don't think I'll need a new housing, the crack is at the top of the case. Could I throw some JB weld on there? or some sort of gasket sealant? The crack ain't that big and it didn't leak before.
 

edmarino

New member
I would think sprocket alignment is the critical issue here. To keep side load off the bolt head. The upper sprocket is really secure behind the nut, so any misaligment will put the load on the lower sprocket and that 5/16 bolt is not going to stand up to it. Even a 3/8 grade #8 is going to be challanged if alignment is off a lot.
 
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doomsman

New member
Indy, I would JB weld it. Clean with acetone and file the inside edges so the
plug is hourglass shaped. Let it set up well and your good to go.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
I got the track and suspension out, got the driveshaft drilled and tapped out to a 3/8"-16 Rear suspension is completly disassembled now, getting ready to paint the torque arms. Shock looks good, driveshaft bearings spin good. Had to grind down a Harbor Freight 7/8" wrench to get the bolts off on the couplers. I scratch awled in lines so i can line up the couplers on the same spot again. Now I gotta go return a clutch puller (they gave me one for 500 fuji), get 3 buttons for my dads secondary, get a new bolt, and get some paint. Indy's got his hands full...
 

ezra

Well-known member
Well you are too young to go to the bars anyways.
Good luck Indy.

but he still needs that sled to get to the kegers in the woods
btw how is acatz550 new toy holding up bet he is making the kegger tonight
 
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I don't think I'll need a new housing, the crack is at the top of the case. Could I throw some JB weld on there? or some sort of gasket sealant? The crack ain't that big and it didn't leak before.

The JB weld may very well work forever. A bud of mine uses it ALL the time and has a tremendous amount of success with it.

All I'm saying is shop around for a used housing , and if you can find one for $25.00 or so, it ain't worth 'dickin' around with the JB weld, I.M.H.O., that's all.

Since it's all apart, please don't forget the new chain-case + speedo bearings, $25.00 +/- per shaft (2 bearings and a seal) is cheap insurance.

Yeah, I know they "spin good" now, how about 200 miles from now?
 
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indy_500

Well-known member
I will probably only put on 1500 miles next winter on it, since i got my 700 to put miles on too. I'm sure the bearings will last, and I'll replace them next year, i tear apart my sled every summer so its no big deal.
 

Polarice

New member
I will probably only put on 1500 miles next winter on it, since i got my 700 to put miles on too. I'm sure the bearings will last, and I'll replace them next year, i tear apart my sled every summer so its no big deal.

You just need to get the 700 to the right price and you'll sell it in a heartbeat. Sold mine for $1500 bone stock except for mirrors and front shock covers. Almost 6000 miles. I know yours has some extras, but who wants those stickers ;) j/k

Did you get those stickers?
 

groomerdriver

New member
As kraven said....change the bearings while you have it apart. I don't give a rats azz kid how many miles you may or may not put on. You've gone through all that trouble to take it apart...spend the $$ and put some new spinners in there! STOOPID if u don't. Sorry to be so hard on ya kid! Ditto with the cheap chaincase replacement.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
You just need to get the 700 to the right price and you'll sell it in a heartbeat. Sold mine for $1500 bone stock except for mirrors and front shock covers. Almost 6000 miles. I know yours has some extras, but who wants those stickers ;) j/k

Did you get those stickers?

yup i got em! I thanked you again on another thread, you must've missed it. Well, thanks again! And the collection grows :) I can't get rid of mine for $1500, I have too much into it. The clutches were practically brand new. I'm keeping it, and am gonna see how many miles I can rack up. 6.5k so far.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
As kraven said....change the bearings while you have it apart. I don't give a rats azz kid how many miles you may or may not put on. You've gone through all that trouble to take it apart...spend the $$ and put some new spinners in there! STOOPID if u don't. Sorry to be so hard on ya kid! Ditto with the cheap chaincase replacement.

I do have 1 new driveshaft/jackshaft clutch side bearing laying around. I know it sounds like a lot of trouble, but I do this every year to every sled I got. I don't mind tearing it apart. And if it does go out in the middle of the season, it's possible to get the bearings off with them on the sled.
 
I do have 1 new driveshaft/jackshaft clutch side bearing laying around. I know it sounds like a lot of trouble, but I do this every year to every sled I got. I don't mind tearing it apart. And if it does go out in the middle of the season, it's possible to get the bearings off with them on the sled.

It is possible, however do you want to risk ruining a trip next time when the bearing fails at the worst possible time and when the snow is good?

Do it now and it's done
 
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