My Second Vintage sled project........1979 Polaris TX 340

[kirk600]

I assume it is applied through a paint gun (plastic adhesion promoter) as he does paint and body work for a living. Once it
Is applied you can use an automotive paint or spray paint. He did say that some tanks he has painted in the past must leak vapors as he
Never could get the paint to stick even with his best efforts

 

[confusion_900]

Kirk , Yes we did all the above that you and your friend have metioned , My friend said the same thing about the vapors and that's why we tried the epoxy method , I hope you have better luck on your's , my next try will be getting it dyed

 

[skiroule]

Hey Kirk,

This project is looking good. Hopefully you're still plugging away at it. I'm thinking I'm not worthy this year. Only thing I've accomplished lately is to pick up a Chaparral parts sled and a rewind for my Johnson (snowmobile that is...but I suppose a guy can dream).

I must lead a charmed life because I've painted a couple of tanks with the standard acrylic enamel from Vintage Sled Paints and they have been holding up well. I try to be careful filling the tanks but it seems like a person spills more often than not. I always wipe it up and I haven't had any issues. I haven't done anything special. I clean the tank with a very volatile lacquer thinner first which seems to give it some "tooth" and then just spray it.

At least hoping to get the 250 on the trail this year. Need to go through the suspension and replace the tank with an extra one I have but then it should be ready for a vintage ride.

 

[kirk600]

hi again Kelly and all,

Yes I have been making some progress lately, but mostly remove-clean-replace work. I did get a rear skid from a 1988 indy trail, paid $20.00 for it, cleaned it up, gave it a quick shot of paint, fresh hyfax, greased the bearings and installed. All the steering is done, both skis are on, found a set of grips at a swap meet for $5.00 and those are on as well. Waiting on some wiring pieces to fix the wiring up so I can re-cover the seat. And thats where I am at today. Maybe at the A1 show next weekend I can find some parts......
Kelly if you need any rear skid parts for your 250, I have the one I removed from this tx I can send you, or any of the pieces. I hate to just throw it out..........

 

[kirk600]

here are a few pics I snapped today. The old iron is getting closer.........

 

[skiroule]

Cripes! I missed this last whole series of photos. This thing is looking good! I like how the suspension could pass for a stock setup. Should be a blast to ride. Also like the handlebar pad - never thought of using an Indy pad.

By all means, don't throw the stock suspension out. Seems like there is always a need for extra parts, particularly the arms, as the shafts are often seized up. I will be pulling the suspension out of my parts sled soon to put in the 250 and that should tell me if I need any immediate replacement stuff.

 

[kirk600]

Thanks for the kind words Kelly. I still have a few items to finish up, i didn't have much luck getting the wrinkles out of this seat cover, so i bit the bullet
and dropped it off to my upholstery guy. He said some steam should do the trick, i should know something by next week.
I didnt make it to the A1 show this year, so i am looking for the aluminum piece for the top of the air box, and i need to decide on whose repop hood to buy.

 

[kirk600]

Well folks, after a few tries and no luck removing the wrinkles from my new seat cover, I bit the bullet and dropped it off at my favorite upholstery shop. He had to use steam, but it looks excellent. I took a moment to try it on the sled. It looks pretty good. I am getting closer, and so is the snow........




- - - Updated - - -

and here is my miserable attempt at painting the letters.......lol

 

[skiroule]

Airbox Piece

I really like how that suspension could pass for stock. Not sure what you'll do with all that travel though Fact is, this sled design just stands the test of time (in my opinion)

This setup has got me thinking. I have a 78 that I was just going to tear down for parts but now I'm wondering if I might keep it to put in an updated suspension as a fun project some day. Couple of questions: It looks like you just moved the rear mounting holes up on the plate rather than re-locating them further back. Is that right? Also, did you have to make any changes to make the driveshaft gears line up?

Personally, I like the Recreational Engineering hoods, probably because I'm lazy. No drilling, cutting, routering or painting - only need to glass in the hood latches. I think you could save some money if you are willing to do some of the prep work. There are at least a couple of other guys making hoods.

I think the lettering looks fine. It will look even better at speed.

By the way, is this the airbox piece you need?

 

[kirk600]

Hi again Kelly,
You are correct that I just moved the suspension up one hole. I probably will move it up to the top hole before its over. I think it sits too high...... I didnt drill any holes, and the driveshaft
from the 1992 rxl originally had 4 drivers, i removed the outside ones so just the two center drivers now. It is the same width as the stock one, so no issues with alignment.
I just used the speedo drive with a bearing that has a locking collar on the bearing, and used a straight edge on the gears in the chaincase before locking the driveshaft bearing in place.
Then measured side to side in the tunnel to make sure drivers were centered. It was a piece of cake, no issues at all.

Yes that is the piece i am looking for........i didnt know exactly what it looked like before, now i recognize the tabs for the airbox.

The skid is from 1988 indy trail,
Kelly i say go for it on the 1978 that you have. I think i might have 200 into track, skid, drivers hyfax and bearings

 

[skiroule]

Thanks! This is good info.

I'll probably give the 78 a death row reprieve and just keep it on the back burner. I do need the suspension for the 250 but it seems to run good and the chassis looks pretty solid so I think it's worth saving.

I''ll throw the airbox piece in a mailer (hopefully within the next week). No charge - if we ever get together for a vintage ride someday you can buy me a beverage.

I'll send you a PM when I get it sent out.

 

[kirk600]

Thanks Kelly!

If the shipping wasn't such a killer for the hood from Recreational Engineering, I would go that route too.......But its like $150.00 to ship one over here..

If you need any skid parts, don't hesitate to ask I still have the old skid out of this tx outside.........
Kirk

 

[skiroule]

Too bad we can't work out some kind of hand-off on the hood.

From my place to Rec. Engineering is just a pleasant 1.5 hour drive through the western burbs, past Ezra's estate (I usually throw a couple of rocks at it), and through the cornfields of west MN. I've picked up all my hoods in person. I have a vintage acquaintance in Houghton that is looking at getting a repop TX hood. Wouldn't be a problem to pick up one or two.

I do go to Marquette occasionally but unfortunately won't be going up until after the first of the year, which I guess isn't that far away now. Not sure how far into the U.P. you go to ride in the winter, if at all.

By the way, mailed the airbox piece this morning. Should be there Friday. You'll love the mailer, very festive.

 

[kirk600]

Thanks for thinking about me and i appreciate the offer to pick up a hood. I am just not sure what i am going to do this winter, replace the hood or ride it as is and replace the hood next year... Angi and I do go into the Yoop, but always have stayed and rode east of Munising on the sleds. Last time i went sledding around Houghton was 1997................first year of the RMK I do believe. It was a odd winter, and around New Years only place in midwest with snow.........Saw trucks and trailers from as far away as Iowa that year, and the Days Inn parking lot had area roped off for sled parking......good times and $10.00 trail permits

Thanks again Kelly for the airbox piece............i will put it to good use!

Kirk

 

[kirk600]

The piece I needed for the airbox arrived safe and sound Kelly, thanks again!!

 

[kirk600]

So today was a slow day, but i did replace the spark plug wires and the coli, as the old coil was all eroded under one wire boot where it had been arcing and i was getting intermittent spark to that cylinder

 

[kirk600]

Ladies and Gentleman, here is my latest progress report. I did receive the airbox piece from Kelly, who was kind enough
to send it as a early christmas present. I am sure most of you would prefer some snow on the ground, so I am asking
for that wonderful white stuff for all of us.
I finally got the seat mounted, again a big thanks to my upholstery guy. It was worth more that the $65 labor he charged me.



I also replaced the coil, as I mentioned in a earlier post, and made up some new plug wires. The original coil was all eroded under the cap as it had been arcing for some time. It starts and runs much better now.






the plug wires are pretty straight forward, they twist into the cap like a screw, and they do the same thing on the coil. I put the old spark plug caps on first, after I cut the wire to length. When that was done, I screwed the wires into the new coil and pushed the rubber boot in place and they are now ready for many more years of sparking..........


Just a note, you can buy new plug wire caps from your local motorcycle parts store. I actually did buy these NGK caps, but I chose not to use them, as they were to be used without the little tip threaded on the spark plug. My reasoning is not all brands of plugs have the threaded ends that you can remove. I have not checked but I am sure they make them with the larger insert to fit a normal plug. These were less than $5 each




I did get a chance to ride it around the yard when we had snow, and here it is waiting to join it big brother 1979 TXL in the trailer




It still needs some work done, but the mechanicals have been addressed for the most part and it starts and moves under it own power.




I dont know how fast these sleds are, but it should be a good performer with as light as it is. I read somewhere in the neighborhood of 400lbs.

hope everyone enjoys the updates, think snow!!!!!!

 

[ss440]

great thread thx for posting

 

[skiroule]

Hey Kirk, I’m so glad you started this thread. That TX is looking clean! I can’t wait to get an update when you get it on some real snow. These little sleds are pretty snappy.

Besides, it finally motivated me to pick up a wrench tonight. I took the rewind off the John Deere, cleaned it up and got it working correctly. Also fixed the hood strut (very important since the hood weighs about 50 lbs.) Then I fired it up – that CCW is a sweet running engine, although all these small displacement vintage engines always seem to have a nice sound to them.

Also removed the seat and tank on the 250 in preparation for replacing the tank. If you have any suggestions for cleaning the inside of the replacement tank I’d like to hear them. I’ve cleaned it with various solvents and gas but there is still some rust staining on the bottom. I don’t think it is a situation where there are chunks that can come loose so maybe it’s OK.

Agree with holding off on swapping out the hood, at least for now. They are spendy and then there is the matter of the graphics. I think a set of 79 graphics runs right around $250.

Hold onto that suspension. I’ll let you know if I need some parts. Thanks!

 

[kirk600]

Hey Kelly,

Glad to hear your getting back into the old iron and fixing some of the little things. Now we need some snow!

I did the recoils on both 1979's this year, and actually replaced the one On the TXL with one from the RXL that i got the TX rear suspension from.
No more triple springs holding the three dogs, no more pesky center spring that always seems to be too loose.

The only thing I had to do, was use a 1/4" spacer under the recoil cup. No different bolts, no cutting trimming or anything else.
The RXL recoil has half the moving parts and it is smoother. Visually, it has a cutout for the water pump belt, but my TXL belt cover hides it.
I tried rebuilding the TXL recoil a couple times, but it kept jamming when pulled all the way out. I hope to do this to my TX also.

As far as your tank rust, some guys swear by using old nuts bolts and washers, put some kind of solvent in there and shake it around.........
After you feel confident the flakes are gone, dump everything and then you could use the evaporust, To remove any remaining rust.
If you recall, i had posted some pictures in my TXL thread of before and after shots using the evaporust on some fasteners. I use that stuff
on anything i want to remove rust from. And i can buy it at the local auto parts store, and Harbor Freight sells it also.