Now what do I do?

indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
I'm replacing the motor mounts on my 99 XC 700 and well... I got problems! I have the motor lifted up about 4 inches sitting on a block of wood right now. I'm trying to get the front clutch side mount off. The 2 parts of the mount split in half and I don't have much rubber to grab onto with a pliers. PLEASE HELP!
 

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mjkaliszak

New member
What do you need to remove the 95% stuck on ? How about a torch & degrade and then scrape off ? Maybe I misunderstand , you can set up a " heat sink" with wet rage & ice to protect surrounding areas.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
I need to remove what's stuck on. 50% of it is still stuck on, the 2nd pic i posted, is what's stuck on right now basically but there's a bit more rubber on that mount. I'm not trying to take the rubber off of it, there's a bolt molded onto the rubber that is stuck in there.
 
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windingtrailgal

Active member
OK..

Jusþ had you on speaker phone with my husb (xcArt) and his diesel mechanic buddy. They're going thru sleds to get ready to ride so figured would be good to ask them.
Mechanic says if ther's no way to grab hold of it to get it out you'll need to grind it out. Wanted to know if they broke off with/without the studs...told him couldn't tell from the pic (it's on a blackberry screen)
OK - just read your second post - art says you'll probly have to get that rubber off in order to get to that post...said it's a crap job and he feels for ya...but doesn't see any other way to get to that bolt with the rubber on. He hopes you'll be able to get that bolt out without having to break it off.
Sorry if I'm giving you crappy answers - hard to read your stuff to him, get answers without a direct communication.
 
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sir-switch

New member
If you have the room...I would simply grind away the rubber that is stuck on the sled with a 90 degree die grinder and use a punch to remove the threaded post.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
Oh boy. I guess i could grind it off, drill it out and use an extractor etc. etc. I might just keep trying to get it off with a pliers before I got ahead and pull the motor.
 
F

fcat700

Member
Just walk away from it. Start fresh tomorrow. Don't ask my why but it aways seems to go better after a good nights rest. My Dad tought me that.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
fcat700 said:
Just walk away from it. Start fresh tomorrow. Don't ask my why but it aways seems to go better after a good nights rest. My Dad tought me that.
Click to expand...

Yeah, i'm done for the day. I'm super tired despite sleeping in till 8:00 today. Did a lot of driving though, probably 3-4 hours worth.
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
I do have another problem, but I think it's an easy fix. I have a crack in my U-pipe connector that connects the pipe to the can. I'll take it to school and weld it. What type of welder do you guys think will be best? i'm fairly good at all 3 (tig, mig, and arc, but obviously best at mig). I have everything disconnected basically. All i'd have to do to pull the motor is disconnect coolant and oil lines and out she'd come. I had a thought that I could bend up the thing metal plating underneath the visible rubber and grip onto the metal plating. I posted a pic of a good mount rp7x sent me, and the crappy one. I also provided another (better) pic of the problem child.
 

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jimfsr

New member
I would try to clean off ther rubber, and bend up the sides to get on it. In my shop I clean them off and just weld a nut on to it, the heat and the new nut make them come right out. If you dont have the welding option at home, try the bending option. As far as the pipe, mig or tig. They wont like the soot and carbon inside though. Have to clean it real well. (sandblast is best)
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
jimfsr said:
I would try to clean off ther rubber, and bend up the sides to get on it. In my shop I clean them off and just weld a nut on to it, the heat and the new nut make them come right out. If you dont have the welding option at home, try the bending option. As far as the pipe, mig or tig. They wont like the soot and carbon inside though. Have to clean it real well. (sandblast is best)
Click to expand...

Alright, i'm going to try the bending option. I do have the welding option, juts not at home. If the bending don't work, I will pull the motor and weld a nut on top.
 
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snoluver1

Active member
Got an air hammer? good sharp chisel bit should cut right through the rubber and bite into the steel to walk it out.
 
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rp7x

Well-known member
way to dirty

clean that all up look close there maybe 3 tabs use a hammer and punch to turn it then with your plyer
 
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luvnsnow

New member
Indy put a little heat on that nut it probably has lock tite on it can you get any grip with vice grips at the bottom.
 
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raceinsnow

New member
There is a special socket that is used for the polaris motor mounts and it grabs the ears of the lower part.I would try and stay away from using a torch because you might start your sled on fire with all that oil and belt sludge.I have done alot of these and have never had to use a torch.You should be able to turn the mount with channel lock pliers.Your worst case is the you will have to remove the motor to get at the mount.Once the mount is broke free it should just spin right out.You should be careful not to mess up the nut that is in the bulk head because I don't think you can get at it to replace it.
 
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