I had a 2001 EDGE-X 600 that was extremely well dialed in for a "stocker". Here's some tips that may be useful.
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS
1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.
2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane, easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!
3) 96 or More studs, I ran (144) 1.3125" Woody's Gold Mege Bite square tip Studs with the 1.25" square plastic backers, traction is where it's at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you're coupled to the ground.
almost FREE MODS
PRIMARY CLUTCH:
1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory. This improves acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft upon engagement thereby further extending crank shaft life.
2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00) I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's
3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing, XCR1250 (Here on H.C.S.) and others offer this service.
SECONDARY
1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of every season (approx $30.00)
2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each
BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY
1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores under the "HELP' brand) to get it perfect.
2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.
3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.
4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the # 3211080 (standard edge belt) although your dealer may have to order it for you.
ENGINE LIMITER
Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $83.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS
EXHAUST VALVES
1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit. Avoid using the wire wheel to clean the aluminum valves as they have a hardened coating on them and the wire wheel will end up damaging that.
2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.
CHECK AND RESET YOUR T.P.S. (Easier to do than you realize)
1) Look at the pinned topics at the top of the PRO-X section, there's a thread tells you how to build your own tester for less than $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, double check the voltage on your tester, DON'T OVERLOOK THIS, you want 5.000 volts EXACTLY!
2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers. With this "store bought unit" you still need to verify the 5.000 volts prior to testing.
3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.
4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.
CHAIN CASE
1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.
2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.
3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they're PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1" I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030", .060" These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.
OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:
1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel) There's a picture of the oil pump posted in the IQ section, thread pinned at the top TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 Free Mods and Best Bang for the Buck
2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.
SKI's
1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred
2) Check out www.bergstromskegs.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis
THAT ANNOYING HIGH IDLE PROBLEM
1) Replace the .9 PILOT AIR JET with a 1.0 (Can be seen from the air box side looking into the carb throat)
2) Reduce idle speed to 1400 R.P.M.
3) Make sure the T.P.S. is set to 4.0 volts, and not higher
DEBATABLE
SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.
COLD START TIP
On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.
WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.
1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!
2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign.
3) Roller Secondary. The "old style" button secondary is faster on top end.
4) Boost bottles
5) 8" rear wheels
6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels
Hope this helps
PICS ARE POSTED ON hardcoresledder.com (TECH TIPS Thread Pinned at the top of the XC section)
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS
1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.
2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane, easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!
3) 96 or More studs, I ran (144) 1.3125" Woody's Gold Mege Bite square tip Studs with the 1.25" square plastic backers, traction is where it's at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you're coupled to the ground.
almost FREE MODS
PRIMARY CLUTCH:
1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory. This improves acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft upon engagement thereby further extending crank shaft life.
2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00) I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's
3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing, XCR1250 (Here on H.C.S.) and others offer this service.
SECONDARY
1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of every season (approx $30.00)
2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each
BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY
1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores under the "HELP' brand) to get it perfect.
2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.
3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.
4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the # 3211080 (standard edge belt) although your dealer may have to order it for you.
ENGINE LIMITER
Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $83.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS
EXHAUST VALVES
1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit. Avoid using the wire wheel to clean the aluminum valves as they have a hardened coating on them and the wire wheel will end up damaging that.
2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.
CHECK AND RESET YOUR T.P.S. (Easier to do than you realize)
1) Look at the pinned topics at the top of the PRO-X section, there's a thread tells you how to build your own tester for less than $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, double check the voltage on your tester, DON'T OVERLOOK THIS, you want 5.000 volts EXACTLY!
2) For those that don't want to build a T.P.S. tester, I just purchased a T.P.S. tester (manufactured by KENT-MOORE / SPX) from my local POLARIS dealer for $48.76 PART # 2201519-A Comes with the pigtail, 2 plug ends, 5 volt regulator, harness. All you need then is a 9-volt battery and a voltmeter. Works on sleds, ATV's & Rangers. With this "store bought unit" you still need to verify the 5.000 volts prior to testing.
3) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.
4) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if necessary.
CHAIN CASE
1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.
2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.
3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they're PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1" I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030", .060" These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.
OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:
1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel) There's a picture of the oil pump posted in the IQ section, thread pinned at the top TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 Free Mods and Best Bang for the Buck
2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.
SKI's
1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred
2) Check out www.bergstromskegs.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis
THAT ANNOYING HIGH IDLE PROBLEM
1) Replace the .9 PILOT AIR JET with a 1.0 (Can be seen from the air box side looking into the carb throat)
2) Reduce idle speed to 1400 R.P.M.
3) Make sure the T.P.S. is set to 4.0 volts, and not higher
DEBATABLE
SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.
COLD START TIP
On the night before, use the choke to "kill" the engine instead of the switch. The fuel dilutes/washes the oil off of the cylinder wall and makes starting the engine on a cold morning so much easier.
WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.
1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!
2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign.
3) Roller Secondary. The "old style" button secondary is faster on top end.
4) Boost bottles
5) 8" rear wheels
6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels
Hope this helps
PICS ARE POSTED ON hardcoresledder.com (TECH TIPS Thread Pinned at the top of the XC section)
Last edited:
i finished autocad early so i get to play on computer