RMK Pro clutch weights

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polarisrider1

New member
Can these be changed without removing clutch are do I need to pull clutch ea. time? clutched for 6000-8000 ft. and will be changing weights as I change riding locations. wondering if there is a easy way to do this. Can I pry clutch open and prop open with a socket and change weights while on the sled is my question, I guess?
 
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ezra

Well-known member
you know I know nothing about poo.but on my cats I always run Dalton adjustable weights can change from toe to heal or add or pull weight with clutch on the sled with a Allen wrench.I usually keep 1 gram in the heal so if you get in to some real deep pow or start low and going high you can just pull a gram during a smoke break
 
srt20

srt20

Active member
Open clutch or get a clutch dummy tool. Clutch dummy tool is quick and easy. I think mine cost $30, got it from a vendor in MI. Cant remember the name. Its great for changing primary springs too. Google it.
 
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polarisrider1

New member
ezra said:
try this link I think the only way to go drop the $220 like 5to8gr of adjustability and have weight for every elevation in less than 3 min. http://www.daltonindustries.com/products_polaris_snowmobile.asp
Click to expand...
Looks to easy to be true. been studying Poo clutching charts and the Poo web site gives different weights than the chart that came with sled. I will try to get a few answers from Dalton before I make a decission. I ride at many altitudes from 600' to over 11,000'. So clutching is an issue. Thank you for the link.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
yeah us to that is why I switched to Dalton yrs ago like 03. start at in the AM and end up at 11k buy noon some times. www.cpcracing.com also has adjustable weights same basic thing but have more weight in heal than tip to start with so it all depends on where you want your weight to start with the. Dalton's are a better all around the cpc better if just using in the mountain.
 
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polarisrider1

New member
Looking at becoming a clutching Pro this up coming season. (it is on my bucket list). Ezra, thank you for the input. Need to here from you ProRMK riders on clutching weights you run by areas. Such as snowies, IP, Cooke, Tog. and Michigan. I am working on either buying all the weights or going with the Dalton adjustables.
 
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winter_time

New member
you still have to open the clutch to change the settings so those weights would work but you still have to go through a couple of steps the only difference is you do not have to pull the three bolts that hold the weights on. i would say three sets of weights would be cheaper than those but that is just my opinion. if you noticed on those weights the spot that the weight threads into is on the top which just so happens to be hidden under the rollers.
 
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ezra

Well-known member
you kids got to get a cat then with Dalton I can change weight balls deep in pow in less than 2 min
 
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traveler

New member
by removing my clutch i can change all three weights in 5 minutes and i dont run the risk of messing up anything by prying the clutch apart
 
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ezra

Well-known member
but can you do it on the hill ?look at his post he starts low and ends high some days cant pull a clutch at 5k just because you want to go to 10k with deep pow and allot of trees to go around because that is where it snowed last night
 
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polarisrider1

New member
All good points. On my 06 RMK 700 (755) I ran 10-68 at home (0-2000') and out west I ran 10-62 weights to cover the 6000 to 8000' range but was running about a 1000 rpm under similiar sleds. Hence running out of motor at about 11,000'. The Dalton set looks to work. As in I can change weights on the mtn. without pulling clutch. Not sure if that is totally neccesary. Also I wonder if the set screws (weights can work their way out. Joe is your thought to wear over weight opennings from rollers may be a problem? I sent out a couple emails to a distributor for Dalton with questions. I am looking at the Dalton weights because of the range it gives and ease of use. I do have a clutch puller and can change weights on the bench easy enough, just looking for more flexability on the mtn. Then again I could drop a set screw (weight) in the snow and be totally mad at myself.
 
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winter_time

New member
Wayne,
My thought is that where the set screw threads in (which appears to be on the top of the weight, just above where the pin should ) would be blocked by the rollers on the spider causing you to have to pry apart the clutch to get access to the top of the weight. I may be incorrect on my thinking but im pretty sure that you would not be able to access the set screw. I really could not say for sure without having a set of dalton weights to put on the clutch and trying it.

as far as your other point being more versitile, with the weights you have in on a trip i would say set up your clutching for what you feel the majority of your riding will be for that trip for example on my 900 for ip i set up with 10-74's because that is the elevation we were doing the majority of our riding at. Ocaisonally we rode higher than that but my sled was able to handle it with out any real kind of power. I personally do not think it would be worth taking a bunch of set screws on the mountain with me and resetting my clutching while im out riding.

Another thought is you could carry a big bag like my dad that contains a variety of things. None of those things happen to be a clutch puller torque wrench and a 1/2 inch ratchet to remove the clutch bolt. It would be very easy to throw those things in there. P.S. dad carrys a hammer that could be used to keep the clutch from rotating and smacking the puller to get the clutch to pop off.
 
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polarisrider1

New member
Thank you Joe, I think I will buy a set of 10-68 weights for home. The sled is clutched for 6000-8000' already. I will try the 10-62 weights that are in it at Cooke City and go lighter if need be. Bear Claw Bob has a full heated shop that we can use. Not sure if the 10-60 weights make that much difference but, they are for the 8000 to 10,000' range for my sled using the chart that I have. RevKev has the 10-68 for MI and 10-62 for out west and he says it works just fine.

Now talk your Dad into going out with us. We had a ton of fun with him last year! p.s. No hammers to be used on my new sled or the clutch. lol
 
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polarisrider1

New member
Okay, here is the update. Dalton and their vendors will not answer questions about the products they make or sell. They stated it in an email (twice) and on their website. So on my own research it does not appear that changing the weight (set screws) will give me enough room to clear the rollers as Wintertime has stated. So I ordered 10-68 and 10-60 weights from Poo to cover the bases. Sled currently has 10-62's in it, but I want to go just a bit higher than Revkev so I went with a touch lighter weight to get my rear end up the mtn.. Anyways, Looks like we are going to go into production of our own (improved) version of the "Dummy tool" for changing weights on the sled on the mtn.. No Hammer, no puller, no wedging or prying on the clutch. We are going stupid smart on this new light weight tool. I will be putting kits together for Poo sleds (at first) and selling them along side the Dimple die kits we now make. Making clutching easier has caught my attention.
 
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polarisrider1

New member
Started getting Materials together to build the "super simple" clutch compressor tool. Poo and Doo both use a 14mmx 1.5 pitch fine thread on their clutches. In the process of designing an easier to use version of this tool I even found my Poo clutch puller..... Bonus! Prototype will be done tommorrow and I need to go get my 10-68 weights at Nelsons Speed Shop to begin. Clutch weights do not appear to be shimmed, but I have a magnetic tray idea for the belly pan portion under clutch to catch them if there are shims.
 
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