RMK Pro clutch weights

[srt20]

I guess I dont understand what you are making? A clutch dummy tool doesnt need anything but a wrench or socket and ratchet. I dont wedge or pry on the clutch. The dummy tool is just for ease of compressing the spring. Is this what you are making?

 

[polarisrider1]

I guess I dont understand what you are making? A clutch dummy tool doesnt need anything but a wrench or socket and ratchet. I dont wedge or pry on the clutch. The dummy tool is just for ease of compressing the spring. Is this what you are making?

Yes, the tool itself. 14mm 1.5 pitch metric threaded rod cut to 18" with a 9" pc. of 5/8th inside dia. pipe, a large washer and a 14mm thread with 1.5 pitch nut. Going to use Grade 5 hardware. I will also make them with 12" length threaded rod with 3" pipe. depending in clearance for belly pan or side panels.

 

[RevKev]

I simply remove the belt, then with a pry bar, compress the spring, and pull the weights out. I also agree Wayne, Never use a Hammer to strike the clutch puller, just asking for crankshaft issues, as it is very hard on the bearings.
The best site for info on the RMK Proride chassis is over on Snowest.com, in the Polaris section, sub section Proride chassis.

 

[techsledder]

I also agree Wayne, Never use a Hammer to strike the clutch puller, just asking for crankshaft issues, as it is very hard on the bearings.

Yeah I NEVER feel comfortable doing that to the primary puller on those XP 800Rs. But that's the only way it pops. I've tried the hydraulic way too. Hot water poured in the bolt hole and the grease pumped in there; them put the puller in. Neither of those have worked in the past... The engineer in me says its real bad to be banging on the puller like that. I check my run-out every time that primary is off too. It's never been over 0.003".

RevKev whats your recommendation?

 

[polarisrider1]

I simply remove the belt, then with a pry bar, compress the spring, and pull the weights out. I also agree Wayne, Never use a Hammer to strike the clutch puller, just asking for crankshaft issues, as it is very hard on the bearings.
The best site for info on the RMK Proride chassis is over on Snowest.com, in the Polaris section, sub section Proride chassis.

I know what your saying Kev, but then I realing want to build a cool tool that everyone wants. I will make it all shiney and stuff, Shiney always sells.

 

[sledhead1125]

Polarisrider1, would you mind sharing the charts for elevation and clutching. I have ridden ski doo all my life but just bought a Pro RMK so I need a little help on what I need. Are spring or helix changes suggested?

Thanks in advance.

 

[polarisrider1]

For the Pro RMK 800 155 the clutching is as follows:
0-2000' - Drive clutch shift weight 10-68
2000'-4000' " " 10-66
4000'-6000' " " 10-64
6000'-8000' " " 10-62
8000'-10,000' " " 10-60
10,000'-12,000' " " 10-58

The drive clutch spring is 140/330 (7043342) for all altitudes
The driven clutch spring is LH Black Team for 0 to 8000' then LH Black/Purple for 8000' to 12,000'
The driven Helix is 56/42/.36 LW ER (5135403) for all altitudes
Chaincase gearing/pitch is 20:42 with 72 pitch for all altitudes

I only plan to change out shift weights and leave everything else alone.

 

[winter_time]

I simply remove the belt, then with a pry bar, compress the spring, and pull the weights out. I also agree Wayne, Never use a Hammer to strike the clutch puller, just asking for crankshaft issues, as it is very hard on the bearings.
The best site for info on the RMK Proride chassis is over on Snowest.com, in the Polaris section, sub section Proride chassis.

Kevin,
I dont always use a hammer to strike the puller but if it wont come off it is sometimes your only option. My 900 is a pain to take the clutch off because it is pressed onto the crank so tight 96 ft.lbs of torque is to be used on it. But I will agree it is better if you dont have to strike it.

 

[RevKev]

Kevin,
I dont always use a hammer to strike the puller but if it wont come off it is sometimes your only option. My 900 is a pain to take the clutch off because it is pressed onto the crank so tight 96 ft.lbs of torque is to be used on it. But I will agree it is better if you dont have to strike it.

Agreed, if it is a last resort, I cringe every time I see someone using an impact gun, or a Hammer on the puller bolt, thats not saying I have never used a hammer, as I have, but it was as a last resort. Key is a good quality Puller, that you know will take a bit of torque, without worry of it Breaking. Wayne, If You Chrome Plate it, I will for sure buy one

 

[RevKev]

For the Pro RMK 800 155 the clutching is as follows:
0-2000' - Drive clutch shift weight 10-68
2000'-4000' " " 10-66
4000'-6000' " " 10-64
6000'-8000' " " 10-62
8000'-10,000' " " 10-60
10,000'-12,000' " " 10-58

The drive clutch spring is 140/330 (7043342) for all altitudes
The driven clutch spring is LH Black Team for 0 to 8000' then LH Black/Purple for 8000' to 12,000'
The driven Helix is 56/42/.36 LW ER (5135403) for all altitudes
Chaincase gearing/pitch is 20:42 with 72 pitch for all altitudes

I only plan to change out shift weights and leave everything else alone.

Last season, I used 10-68 in Michigan (40 miles only), and 10-62 all other Locations ( Togwotee, Cooke City, Island Park, and Snowy Range) and RPM's were spot on. I did have to grind my weights, so all 3 matched, as they were .9g off from each other, now all 3 are exactly the same at 62.1g

 

[techsledder]

Agreed, if it is a last resort, I cringe every time I see someone using an impact gun, or a Hammer on the puller bolt, thats not saying I have never used a hammer, as I have, but it was as a last resort. Key is a good quality Puller, that you know will take a bit of torque, without worry of it Breaking.

Well I'm pooched then! I guess I have to buy a Pro next so as not to have to use the hammer. Because my XP 800R won't let go of that primary... even using the "OEM" puller.

 

[RevKev]

Well I'm pooched then! I guess I have to buy a Pro next so as not to have to use the hammer. Because my XP 800R won't let go of that primary... even using the "OEM" puller.

Primary has never been off the Poo yet, so Not sure. My 05 800HO lets go of the crank pretty hard as well, I add a dab of grease on the end of the puller, and it makes quite a "pop" as it comes off, but I have never had to strike the puller yet...(fingers crossed for the next time I need to remove it)

 

[techsledder]

Seems to me you boys who have the AC or Poo primarys have an easier time getting to the weights too to change them out! Changing my brother's 2009 AC 800 is quick and simple. XP's a PITA compared to those others...

 

[polarisrider1]

Okay Kev I will chrome the tool. My fastener guy went shopping and said grade 6??? threaded rod is pricey in 14mm with 1.5 pitch. 1.75 is common. Anyways I used grade 2 threaded rod for the tool as a prototype. Just to see if there is any reason to market such tool. I changed weights in sled with clutch in sled in about 15 minutes total time. that includes removing clutch bolt, compressing clutch, removing ea. weight and reinstalling new weight individually, then releasing the clutch tool and reinstalling the clutch bolt. Note: add 5 minutes per beer. and 20 minutes if neighbor (non sledder) shows up to help. Did have a heart attack at dealer when the bill for 2 sets of weights (6pcs.) and a 115 belt totaled $275 with tax, they had to mention that in order to scrap me up off the floor.

 

[nitroman]

I know what your saying Kev, but then I realing want to build a cool tool that everyone wants. I will make it all shiney and stuff, Shiney always sells.

Custom bent pry bar and c shaped piece to hold it when compressed. Good time to clean the clutch faces and belt. Thats how I do it. You don't even need to pull the belt all the completly off the pro to change the weights just shove it out of the way so you can compress the primary and put the clamp on. All 3 takes less than 20 min not even worth warming up the garage!

 

[polarisrider1]

Custom bent pry bar and c shaped piece to hold it when compressed. Good time to clean the clutch faces and belt. Thats how I do it. You don't even need to pull the belt all the completly off the pro to change the weights just shove it out of the way so you can compress the primary and put the clamp on. All 3 takes less than 20 min not even worth warming up the garage!

Gotcha, I removed belt but will try leaving it on next time. the compression tool works great. I would pull clutch and change weights on bench if my clutch had shims but it don't.

 

[doospunk]

Did ya try the "Boiling water" trick yet Paul? Same issue here with getting it off, but found this to be rather effective. Boil some water in a kettle, tip the sled on it's side, pour into clutch bolt shaft, wrap your puller threads with teflon/plumbing tape, and proceed to wrench. Have never had to set my torque wrench more than 75lbs to get it to pop!

 

[polarisrider1]

For the Pro RMK 800 155 the clutching is as follows:
0-2000' - Drive clutch shift weight 10-68
2000'-4000' " " 10-66
4000'-6000' " " 10-64
6000'-8000' " " 10-62
8000'-10,000' " " 10-60
10,000'-12,000' " " 10-58

The drive clutch spring is 140/330 (7043342) for all altitudes
The driven clutch spring is LH Black Team for 0 to 8000' then LH Black/Purple for 8000' to 12,000'
The driven Helix is 56/42/.36 LW ER (5135403) for all altitudes
Chaincase gearing/pitch is 20:42 with 72 pitch for all altitudes

I only plan to change out shift weights and leave everything else alone.

Just a reminder that this is clutch settings for the ProRMK. other Poo models will differ.

 

[Trees4Traction440]

carry a thicker screw driver and one of these SLP clutch tools. CHEEP and EASY i can do weights in minutes on the hill

 

[polarisrider1]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNmTGqVTca8&feature=related