RPM not going to idle at stop signs Poo IQ CFI

Polarice

New member
I have a CFI Polaris IQ 600 2010.

When I'm on the trail going to stop signs I have to hit the brake to stop. The RPM remains close to 4000 and the sled will keep moving. When I hit the brake the RPM goes down to idle.

It did not do this until today. It's my first run on the trails with a new track (1.352 Cobra). The previous track was a .92 with 96 studs in the center.

Is it possible that it's doing this because of the different track with no studs? Or, could it be something else like clutching, injectors, etc.?
 
I have a CFI Polaris IQ 600 2010.

When I'm on the trail going to stop signs I have to hit the brake to stop. The RPM remains close to 4000 and the sled will keep moving. When I hit the brake the RPM goes down to idle.

It did not do this until today. It's my first run on the trails with a new track (1.352 Cobra). The previous track was a .92 with 96 studs in the center.

Is it possible that it's doing this because of the different track with no studs? Or, could it be something else like clutching, injectors, etc.?

Throttle position sensor is off

or

Torn throttle boots

or

Throttle cable hanging up
 

Polarice

New member
Throttle position sensor is off

or

Torn throttle boots

or

Throttle cable hanging up

How do I turn tps on if it's off?

Where are throttle boots so I can see that they're torn?

How do I know if the throttle cable is hanging up?

Thanks, I'm oblivious on these things.
 
How do I turn tps on if it's off? The Throttle Position sensor, might need to be adjusted, probably a dealer thing

Where are throttle boots so I can see that they're torn? BLACK RUBBER between air-box+ engine

How do I know if the throttle cable is hanging up? With the engine off, spray some WD-40 inside the cable from up top where the throttle lever is

Thanks, I'm oblivious on these things.

How do I turn tps on if it's off?
The Throttle Position sensor, might need to be adjusted, probably a dealer thing as you need a $48.00 testing tool and a digital volt-meter.

Where are throttle boots so I can see that they're torn?
BLACK RUBBER between air-box+ engine, it's common that they come apart, need to look real close with a flashlight and remove the air-box for a better look-see.

How do I know if the throttle cable is hanging up?
Try this first as it's the easiest, With the engine off, hold the throttle 100% open and spray some WD-40 inside the cable from up top where the throttle lever is

Hope this helps
 
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Polarice

New member
Much appreciated Kraven.

The guy that services my sled showed me how to adjust the tps on my carbed iq but I'll just have him look at this one and the boots.

If the thottle cable is getting stuck, why would me hitting the brake bring it to the proper rpm?
 
Much appreciated Kraven.

The guy that services my sled showed me how to adjust the tps on my carbed iq but I'll just have him look at this one and the boots.

If the thottle cable is getting stuck, why would me hitting the brake bring it to the proper rpm?

Don't know why hitting the brake lowers the RPM.

Loose air box, whipping back and forth??Is the rear air-box strap on??

Please keep in mind that the T.P.S. on C.F.I.'s is set differently than the carbed sleds (WIDE OPEN THROTTLE + 4.0 to 4.1 volts)

On a C.F.I. see my TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 CFI's now on page 2 here,

CFI's get set at FULLY CLOSED THROTTLE, meaning idle screw backed off altogether.

Then set the T.P.S. @ .70 volts.

Open the throttle speed screw until .95 volts (this # varies, consults your owner's manual, it's .95 for 700's, .94 OR .93 FOR OTHER MODELS) is reached.

You're done, DO NOT re-adjust the idle speed at any time after it's been set as the VOLTAGE determine idle speed on a C.F.I., NOT r.p.m.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Don't know why hitting the brake lowers the RPM.

Loose air box, whipping back and forth??Is the rear air-box strap on??

Please keep in mind that the T.P.S. on C.F.I.'s is set differently than the carbed sleds (WIDE OPEN THROTTLE + 4.0 to 4.1 volts)

On a C.F.I. see my TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 CFI's now on page 2 here,

CFI's get set at FULLY CLOSED THROTTLE, meaning idle screw backed off altogether.

Then set the T.P.S. @ .70 volts.

Open the throttle speed screw until .95 volts (this # varies, consults your owner's manual, it's .95 for 700's, .94 OR .93 FOR OTHER MODELS) is reached.

You're done, DO NOT re-adjust the idle speed at any time after it's been set as the VOLTAGE determine idle speed on a C.F.I., NOT r.p.m.

That's why I was guessing something in the drivetrain. It just wants to keep on rolling.

How tight is track?

Was belt deflection adjusted? Does it seem to accelerate the same?

Could be primary clutch issue.

Just throwing out some possibilities. This is another one of those "could be everything" type problems.
 
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Polarice

New member
Could it be that we tightened the chain too much?

I'm thinking and thinking here. If it's too tight could that cause the secondary to keep more tension on the primary?

Belt deflection is good.

Track is loose. I keep them loose...try to have them loose enough so that they don't ratchet.

I think it's the chaincase darn it! I think I'll loosen it a couple of turns before we ride tomorrow just to rule that out. If I can get to it without taking the exhaust off.
 
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indy_500

Well-known member
Finger tighten as tight as you can, then 1/4 turn looser (1.5/6 flats on the bolt) double check belt deflection. Although you probably would've noticed a difference in top speed or take off with too tight a chain. Just start with simple stupid things. Because you really didn't touch throttle/injectors at all when installing the track right?
 
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Polarice

New member
Finger tighten as tight as you can, then 1/4 turn looser (1.5/6 flats on the bolt) double check belt deflection. Although you probably would've noticed a difference in top speed or take off with too tight a chain. Just start with simple stupid things. Because you really didn't touch throttle/injectors at all when installing the track right?

Correct. Nothing like that was touched.

I think this will solve the problem. If not, I'll proceed elsewhere.

Darn snowmobiles.
 

snootbiscuit

New member
explain to me how in the world does the chain tension have anything to do with the idle being higher, this I cant wait to hear!!
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Chain tension will have NOTHING to do with idle speed.

From what i'm reading, his sled doesn't want to slow down and just stays going...?? I do realize chain tension has nothing to do with idle speed but what he's explaining, i'm understanding that his sled doesn't want to slow down by itself.
 

srt20

Active member
It doesnt wanna stop because its not coming down to an idle, therefore keeping the clutch engaged, which pulls on the belt, which turns the secondary, which......well you"ll figure it out. haha
 

indy_500

Well-known member
It doesnt wanna stop because its not coming down to an idle, therefore keeping the clutch engaged, which pulls on the belt, which turns the secondary, which......well you"ll figure it out. haha

Exactly why i figured it was a drivetrain problem
 

srt20

Active member
I would be checking what Kraven tells you, especially the intake boots. If these are leaking air at all, you can burn down your engine. Mine did. The boots inbetween the engine and the throttle bodies.
 
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