srt20
Active member
haha, yeah the engine is running to high and it is turning the drivetrain......lol, you get it sooner or later.
RPM not going to idle at stop signs Poo IQ CFI
- Thread starter Polarice
- Start date
haha, yeah the engine is running to high and it is turning the drivetrain......lol, you get it sooner or later.
I loosened the chain a little bit. I think it helped, but, it still seems to do it sometimes.
It actually does it after the motor gets up to temp around 140.
I usually let them warm up to about 100 and then take off. This morning we went and got gas and it wasn't doing it. Then, after we started riding the trails a bit, it was doing it. That's what makes me think it's doing it when it gets up to temp.
Does that explain anything?
It actually does it after the motor gets up to temp around 140.
I usually let them warm up to about 100 and then take off. This morning we went and got gas and it wasn't doing it. Then, after we started riding the trails a bit, it was doing it. That's what makes me think it's doing it when it gets up to temp.
Does that explain anything?
snootbiscuit
New member
polarice: that chain tension WILL NOT affect you idle!! you either A. have a cable hanging up, B. an air leak or C. tps is bad or loose! I would not overlook fuel pressure also= too high and it could force more fuel than nec. past injecters
snootbiscuit
New member
under hood,next to the key switch, there is a "shraeder valve" which looks like a tire valve stem. you would need a high pressure gauge ! correct pressure is 59 psi from what I remember! my gauge was off a little,both of mine were at 64 psi. both run fine! I think if you checked it and saw a reading of more than approx. 65, I would be checking into it further. actually thinking of this a little more, if you saw a low reading, then it might poss. be running lean{not enough fuel} and causing the high idle. a very simple check as long as you have the tool!
D.B. Cooper
Member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^CORRECT, the fitting is up by the rear of the air-box by the steering hoop. You can rig a temporary gauge set-up with an old 0-100 P.S.I. oil pressure gauge from a car and duct tape the gauge to your handle bars so you can monitor the fuel pressure as you're driving to help diagnose a problem
59 P.S.I. is the book, most test a little higher,(62 p.s.i.) FUEL PRESSURE SHOULD BE @ 59 p.s.i. +/- WHETHER AT IDLE OR FULL THROTTLE!
D.B. Cooper
Member
Back to basics:
1) Do the throttle cable lube, check for throttle cable kinked, pushed held out of place.
2) Disconnect the cable from the throttle body, see if the throttle opens and returns by itself fully with the cable disconnected
3) Look for torn /cracked throttle body boots, inspect CLOSELY with a light
4) Remove the air-box, see it there's black crud inside the throttle bodies, remove + clean (then tape up the air-box seams as the engine is ingesting the belt dust) After you remove the throttle bodies to clean them, inspect/clean the reeds as well, since you're right there.
5) Check the T.P.S. (refer to my TECH TIPS for 600/700/800 CFI's Thread)
Don't worry about the fuel pressure, that's NOT causing your problem.
Concentrate on the 5 points above and you'll fix your problem
D.B. Cooper
Member
I rode Munising, Christmas, AuTrain, back in 1987, never went back
Usually do "back-pack trips, ride from Northern Wisconsin to Copper + back, cross country with 4-6 in our group, stay at different places, take different routes/to break it up a little
If you're up for doing it again, you have a place to stay. The cabin will be finished this summer in Wetmore.
D.B. Cooper
Member
Update: I sprayed the throttle cable with tri flow(the same stuff I spray my clutches with each day before riding).
Now I didn't end up riding again because of the numerous reports that the trails were poop. So, when I got home I tried to simulate riding the trails with the jackstand. I got the sled up to 140 degrees and it was going to idle with no problem. There was also a lot less drag with it being up.
It's possible that this fixed the problem. I attemped to take the airbox off and I could NOT do it. Do you have any pointers on how to get the darn thing off?
Now I didn't end up riding again because of the numerous reports that the trails were poop. So, when I got home I tried to simulate riding the trails with the jackstand. I got the sled up to 140 degrees and it was going to idle with no problem. There was also a lot less drag with it being up.
It's possible that this fixed the problem. I attemped to take the airbox off and I could NOT do it. Do you have any pointers on how to get the darn thing off?
D.B. Cooper
Member
X2^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
D.B. Cooper
Member
Air-box removal requires that you loosen the clamps on the throttle body to air-box boots, it's definitely a P.I.T.A. but I highly recommend to do so to inspect the throttle body boots for rips + tears.
And stop spraying the clutches! NOT a good idea
What you guys are saying about the clutches is completely anti what the old man says.
There are so many moving parts in that clutch and I've seen them get completely destroyed and we believe that tri flow can stop that.
The guy that works on the sleds is old school and has been doing that for 30+ years. What is the philosophy behind not doing it?
There are so many moving parts in that clutch and I've seen them get completely destroyed and we believe that tri flow can stop that.
The guy that works on the sleds is old school and has been doing that for 30+ years. What is the philosophy behind not doing it?
indy_500
Well-known member
Back in the day, they used to do that all the time. Each brand sold their own clutch lube. There's a reason they don't sell it no more.
What reason is that?