Sea and Snow

big10champ2003

New member
Well, I just loved reading this whole thread so much that I thought I would put my 2cents in.

I have a 95 xlt sp (600 trip) bought it 6-7yrs ago with 4500 miles on it. It now has just shy of 10,000 miles and will breack that Coming up here Jan 22 as I hit the back woods of the sweet U.P. The last 4-5 gallons of oil to go through the motor were Sea & Snow, proir to that was what ever was cheapest that I could find. When I first got it I mixed and match oil all the time.

So, on a 600 mono-block triple that people say are junk and blow all the time. I have always used the cheap oil.....and NEVER had an engine problem. In fact the motor is still 100% original!

So, like its been said. who cares really what your running in the sled.... as long as the sleds a running!
 

-Fluffy-

New member
Holy crap... I stopped reading as soon as Unions came under fire, not because I'm pro Union, but because I thought this thread was about OIL! Not sure where you guys are, but here's the facts:

Citgo S&S was rebranded under the Mystik label. It is atleast the same stuff, if not slightly updated over the Citgo nameplate. No problems there. Also, it has always been an API-TC and JASO FC/FD Synthetic blend oil. I'd say it's the best value on a quality oil out there, not to mention it smells great.

I've always opted for the Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic myself, as it's only about $4-5 more per gallon than the S&S. For that price, I have no reason not to. I was turned on to it when I had an 06 F7 EFI and got sick of buying the APV oil. Synthetics are always a little bit better; they provide better Power Valve cleaning, are more molecularly stable, and have better flow characteristics in extreme temperatures.

Realistically, anything that has the API-TC and JASO FC/FD certifications is going to be great oil, and provide all the protection you need. Whether you choose Mineral or Synthetics is all up to you, and how often you want to clean your Exhaust Power Valves (if so equipped).

By far, the most important thing of all, is that you steer clear of TCW3 Marine oils for your modern snowmobiles. TCW3 oils lubricate and burn very differently than API TC oils, and pose a risk for major engine damage. If you've used it in the past, or used it in a pinch, you could be ok, but all or the engine manufacturers are strongly against it, and you can kiss any warranty goodbye.
 

danford1

New member
I'd run the semi-synthetic. I'm still stuck in the old days, but when i get a newer sled with ves, i'll probably still run semi-synthetic. It stays on the crank bearings better in the offseason, synthetic drips right off the crank bearings and allows them to rust. ARCTIC BLUE ALL THE WAY!

Where did you read this? (about synthetics dripping off crank bearings allowing them to rust)
Is this just your thoughts or opinions or is this based on actual written facts?
I'm interested in this. I never heard or read that one before.
Please educate me on this.
Thanks.
Danford1
 

russholio

Well-known member
Holy crap... I stopped reading as soon as Unions came under fire, not because I'm pro Union, but because I thought this thread was about OIL! Not sure where you guys are, but here's the facts:

Citgo S&S was rebranded under the Mystik label. It is atleast the same stuff, if not slightly updated over the Citgo nameplate. No problems there. Also, it has always been an API-TC and JASO FC/FD Synthetic blend oil. I'd say it's the best value on a quality oil out there, not to mention it smells great.

I've always opted for the Mystik JT4 Full Synthetic myself, as it's only about $4-5 more per gallon than the S&S. For that price, I have no reason not to. I was turned on to it when I had an 06 F7 EFI and got sick of buying the APV oil. Synthetics are always a little bit better; they provide better Power Valve cleaning, are more molecularly stable, and have better flow characteristics in extreme temperatures.

Realistically, anything that has the API-TC and JASO FC/FD certifications is going to be great oil, and provide all the protection you need. Whether you choose Mineral or Synthetics is all up to you, and how often you want to clean your Exhaust Power Valves (if so equipped).

By far, the most important thing of all, is that you steer clear of TCW3 Marine oils for your modern snowmobiles. TCW3 oils lubricate and burn very differently than API TC oils, and pose a risk for major engine damage. If you've used it in the past, or used it in a pinch, you could be ok, but all or the engine manufacturers are strongly against it, and you can kiss any warranty goodbye.

I bought a case a couple weeks ago. Maybe it's a regional thing (I'm in SE Michigan) but it's still labeled Citgo Sea and Snow, and the guys at the distributor didn't know anything about it being re-labeled to Mystik.

Not so sure about the great smell, either -- or maybe the full synthetic has a more pleasant aroma than the semi-syn -- but hey, beauty is in the eye of the beerholder! :)
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Where did you read this? (about synthetics dripping off crank bearings allowing them to rust)
Is this just your thoughts or opinions or is this based on actual written facts?
I'm interested in this. I never heard or read that one before.
Please educate me on this.
Thanks.
Danford1

I have no firsthand experience, but thought about running synthetic this year but read that it drips off crank bearings, meaning you need to fog it, or start it up at least once a month if not more
 

xcsp

Member
I have no firsthand experience, but thought about running synthetic this year but read that it drips off crank bearings, meaning you need to fog it, or start it up at least once a month if not more

I don't have any first-hand exp. either but have read about that same thing and some people that have torn engines down that were running full-syn. oils had found dry crank bearings.

With any engine, fogging it is a good idea if not being used for some time.

Regarding oils & exhaust (power) valves, I personally have not seen that using full synthetic oil has kept the valves any cleaner than when using a synthetic blend, and actually the valves were more clean with the synthetic blend.
 

-Fluffy-

New member
I bought a case a couple weeks ago. Maybe it's a regional thing (I'm in SE Michigan) but it's still labeled Citgo Sea and Snow, and the guys at the distributor didn't know anything about it being re-labeled to Mystik.

Not so sure about the great smell, either -- or maybe the full synthetic has a more pleasant aroma than the semi-syn -- but hey, beauty is in the eye of the beerholder! :)

Maybe they haven't burned through all of their Citgo ones yet, but the Citgo isn't available in Wisconsin, or Minnesota anymore, at least, not that I've found. Sea & Snow is still listed on Citgo's website, but Mystik just added it to theirs too. Funny. Give it some time and we'll see. The stuff is made and bottled in Texas, so it might take longer to work its way north. They also changed the bottles of the JT4. They used to be black, but now are white. The Sea & Snow is also in a white bottle too.

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I was referring to the Sea & Snow on the smell also. It has a very distinctive sweet smell to it. The JT4 Full Synthetic has a similar aroma, but it's not quite as strong. I personally like the smell, but not everybody else will. A friend of mine once thought my sled was leaking coolant because of the sweet smell he noticed when he was following me. I laughed and reminded him that that was impossible, because my sled is air cooled.

As far as the Power Valves being cleaner with Synthetics over Minerals, or vice versa, the detergent additives will play the biggest role in that. If a couple Mineral oils beat a couple Synthetics, I guess I wouldn't be too surprised. I'm just going off mine and other tech's experiences at this point, and that has generally been that the Synthetics have kept an edge on Power Valve cleanliness. I know the Arctic Cat guys always seem to have better luck on their APV engines with Synthetic oils. I found a specific thread where they compared Sea & Snow vs. JT4 and found the JT4 to be much better at cleaning the valves.
 

hothyfax

New member
As far as power valves go,I have found the more you putt around and drive slow all the time the crappier they get.Run it in the higher rpms more than slow keeps them cleaner and sea foam in the fuel of course LOL.
 

-Fluffy-

New member
As far as power valves go,I have found the more you putt around and drive slow all the time the crappier they get.Run it in the higher rpms more than slow keeps them cleaner and sea foam in the fuel of course LOL.

Absolutely. The best thing you can do for them is crack it wide open when you get the chance. It's actually something that everybody needs to do to all of their engines. It's what the engines were designed for, and in all reality, an engine is most efficient at wide open throttle. Anything less, and you're choking it off.
 

polarisrider1

New member
Absolutely. The best thing you can do for them is crack it wide open when you get the chance. It's actually something that everybody needs to do to all of their engines. It's what the engines were designed for, and in all reality, an engine is most efficient at wide open throttle. Anything less, and you're choking it off.

Makes sense. Guess that's why I get 2500 miles between cleaning valves.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Arctic blue on sale for $15.29 which is $1.70 off, better go buy some at fleet before indy buys it all.
 

600etec

New member
Sea and Snow in Etec

Anyone running Sea and Snow in an Ski-Doo Etec? Dealer recommends semi for the Etec so it would be nice to run 15-17$/gallon vs 35$/gallon
 
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