Sled blown up from water in fuel???

[racerxnet]

Good info! Thank you! I did not realize that there was that much put into a "recoated" cylinder! I did talk to Millenium and they have one in stock. You're right on the ex valve, trying to save $60 up front could cost me $600 an hour down the trail, not very wise of me to consider saving the old valve. For those that use US Chrome they happened to be $80 higher on this cylinder so I'm going with Millenium.

It is always good practice to check the exhaust valve to piston clearance while disassembled. Insert the piston and with the valve bottomed out, measure the clearance with a feeler gauge. The initial check can be done with a flashlight for clearance. Make sure the arrow on the piston is facing the correct way. You can increase the clearance (piston to exhaust valve) if needed with a flap wheel on a die grinder. Just take your time to do the reassembly right. Enjoy learning how things work.

MAK

 

[russholio]

I learned something.....never knew what flap wheels were for. Your response above made me curious so I googled it and found my answer. Now I know.

 

[skeeter2010]

in regards to water in the fuel I have in the past been able to with a flashlight look inside the fuel tank and actually see water in the tank it looks kind of like air bubbles sitting on the bottom. It may be worth looking in the tank.

 

[longtrack]

Part the thing out and buy a 4 Stroke, then Ride.

 

[rvrbum4]

Well I got most of the parts today, everything but the jug. I tore carbs apart and cleaned in prep for when the jug comes. The only things I found so far were a "starting" jet that looked somewhat clogged (bad side) and the idle mixture screw on the bad cylinder was out 2 turns while the one on the good cylinder was out 3.5 turns. The air box rubber inserts seem to be nice and snug on the carb intake horns, and no water in tank or carbs. Carb boots to cylinders were in place and tight. The more I dig into it the air in the oil line to the crank seal just keeps haunting me! No air in the other three lines, just the one to the crank seal on the bad cylinder side. Could a bad crank seal suck air around the seal as well as suck air bubbles in the oil line???
MORE QUESTIONS:
If it is a crank seal, can the case be split and seal replaced without tearing the top end all back apart?? Or, am I doing all of this work just to do it again?? I'm thinking if it's crank seal I may want to have someone do it for me so they can check all the stuff you're supposed to check when it's apart.
Does anyone have torque specs for cylinder and head as well as tightening sequence?? 2005 RMK 700.
There are no seals shown in parts breakdown for the head bolts but there looks to be some sealant stuck under the heads. Is there something I should apply to bottom of head of the head bolts when reassembling?
Last one, when moving to the garage I got about a thimble full of antifreeze in the crankcase. I sucked it out with an extractor but can't be 100% sure that none got into the other side of the crankcase. What's a trick to making sure no water left in crankcase? I was thinking of leaning sled on side (toward bad side) and water/oil should run to bad side where I can check it or get it out, right??
Thanks for all your help!!!

 

[rvrbum4]

All back together and running great!
I got all my other questions answered with more research.
I sprayed EVERYTHING with ether on that side - crank seal, carb boot, jug base, air box seal....... no change in rpm at all. Sprayed some directly into the air box and sled died right away. Not what I expected but definitely nothing happened when spraying all around everything else but did change when I sprayed direct into air box. So fingers crossed, we're all good!
It must have been the combination of starter jet restricted and idle mixture too lean. Go figure!
THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR HELPFUL COMMENTS!!