Sled blown up from water in fuel???

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rvrbum4

New member
I agree on the two but just had the other done a year ago as an emergency on vacation, power valve let go. So other one is nice and fresh.
They said this side looked good so they left it.
Just so you understand my frustration and unwillingness to spend any more money on it than I have to, had the one side redone last year from power valve then two weeks later it caught fire. Fixed the fire damage with used wire harness, air box, oil tank and shroud. All new fuel lines, oil lines and tps and back on the trail. This year new track, broken radius rod and now this. In the meantime rebuilt the Ally in the duramax!! I'm tapped out!!
 
D

dawolf

New member
ezra said:
high idol and peaky slow to idol down is the norm. could be that piston has been on the way out for some time. I always do both at the same time. what are u saving buy doing 1 90 bucks?
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Never take engine or tax advice from an ex con who can't spell.
 
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G

Guest
Piston pin pullers cost about $20 bucks. Back when I bought Pols they would throw one in with every sled purchase.
 
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fish633

New member
Noticed in the picture one head was cleaner than the other.This usually an indicatation that the head gasket is was leaking coolant that washed the oil off the cylinder walls and seized the motor
 
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G

Guest
Seriously though if you need the sled right now today you will have to pony up some bucks for a new jug. However if you don't need it right away there has got to be a used serviceable 700 jug out there somewhere. They made a lot of these things. I would put out some feelers and then go back to your sled and figure out what happened. I would go all the way back to the fuel pickup in the tank, the fuel pump and then the carbs. I once had the brass screen pickup in the gas tank rot off. The gas line would only pick up fuel when it was in the mood and this resulted in a burndown that we couldn't figure out right away. Of course drain all the fuel and see if it separates. And check all the flanges and boots with a history of splitting. Splitting the cases to put in a new seal is not that hard but if you just go ahead and replace the seal you will never really be sure what burned you down. Ezra has the best idea in getting it running again and then spraying starting fluid around the seal area. Even if he does know secret homosexual handshakes. He is a well rounded individual.
 
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rvrbum4

New member
I definitely don't need the sled today or anytime in the near future for that matter so going to work on jug to see how bad it really is as well as look for good used vs. replate in the meantime.
grub - I had already checked weighted screen in tank-all good. I had the same thing happen to a different sled two years ago.
fish633 - The clean side of the head is the GOOD cylinder that was rebuilt last year but I can see water droplets on the head which is why I wondered about water in fuel causing meltdown thinking other side got the brunt of the water. Definitely not antifreeze though.
I worry about the air bubbles in the oil line going to crank bearing on same side as junk piston/cylinder. I don't see air bubbles in any other lines. Oil lines were all brand new last year following a fire! SMH!
I plan on using an extractor to suck from bottom of tank until no signs of water if any exist at all then drain rest of system and pump known good gas through system, pull carbs and clean thoroughly, see if airbox/carb seals are still good and tight, put engine back together and check pto crank seal immediately after back up and running. Does the engine rev up when you spray starting fluid on a bad crank seal?
Anything else I've forgotten or don't know about or it sounds like I'm just plain doin' wrong???
Since no snow here I'm using this as a learning experience and trying to save some $$'s.
 
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G

Guest
When you spray starting fluid around a seal or carb boot or whatever if there is a leak the engine will rev a little. Spray it while the engine is idling. Be careful of the spinning drive clutch when checking the PTO side crank bearing. Not exactly an OSHA approved procedure.
 
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kraven700

Member
rvrbum4 said:
I definitely don't need the sled today or anytime in the near future for that matter so going to work on jug to see how bad it really is as well as look for good used vs. replate in the meantime.
grub - I had already checked weighted screen in tank-all good. I had the same thing happen to a different sled two years ago.
fish633 - The clean side of the head is the GOOD cylinder that was rebuilt last year but I can see water droplets on the head which is why I wondered about water in fuel causing meltdown thinking other side got the brunt of the water. Definitely not antifreeze though.
I worry about the air bubbles in the oil line going to crank bearing on same side as junk piston/cylinder. I don't see air bubbles in any other lines. Oil lines were all brand new last year following a fire! SMH!
I plan on using an extractor to suck from bottom of tank until no signs of water if any exist at all then drain rest of system and pump known good gas through system, pull carbs and clean thoroughly, see if airbox/carb seals are still good and tight, put engine back together and check pto crank seal immediately after back up and running. Does the engine rev up when you spray starting fluid on a bad crank seal?
Anything else I've forgotten or don't know about or it sounds like I'm just plain doin' wrong???
Since no snow here I'm using this as a learning experience and trying to save some $$'s.
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1) Take the fuel injectors to a diesel truck place that can test them

2) If you're concerned about the air bubbles in the oil line, some guys on Sno-West have been installing the Passo racing oil tank cap or the Ski-Doo oil tank cap to better help this situation with improper venting ???????
 
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sweeperguy

Active member
ezra said:
Can't spell I own that. But thought u had to have been in prison to be a ex con. Jail for the night yep who hasn't
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anyone that hasn't spent an overnight in the steel bar motel probably isn't having as much fun as they could.
 
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rvrbum4

New member
kraven700 said:
1) Take the fuel injectors to a diesel truck place that can test them

2) If you're concerned about the air bubbles in the oil line, some guys on Sno-West have been installing the Passo racing oil tank cap or the Ski-Doo oil tank cap to better help this situation with improper venting ???????
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Carbureted so no injectors. Interesting take on the air in lines.

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sweeperguy said:
anyone that hasn't spent an overnight in the steel bar motel probably isn't having as much fun as they could.
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I haven't but its not from a lack if trying!!
 
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rvrbum4

New member
Acid washed the cylinder tonight. Verdict: TOAST!!
There's a small section of coating completely gone.
Other thing I noticed is that there is evidence that the power valve was making slight contact with the piston too.
 
srt20

srt20

Active member
Check prices at US Chrome also. They were slightly cheaper for me. They had one on shelf, I went and picked it up myself, and they knocked more $$$ off.
 
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kraven700

Member
rvrbum4 said:
Acid washed the cylinder tonight. Verdict: TOAST!!
There's a small section of coating completely gone.
Other thing I noticed is that there is evidence that the power valve was making slight contact with the piston too.
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On the exhaust valve/ piston interference issue;
MILLENNIUM "rebuilds" the exhaust valve "stops" by pressing hardened pins/seats into the contact area to resolve this
 
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rvrbum4

New member
kraven700 said:
On the exhaust valve/ piston interference issue;
MILLENNIUM "rebuilds" the exhaust valve "stops" by pressing hardened pins/seats into the contact area to resolve this
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So a resurfaced cylinder from millennium will have the stops in the cylinder or it's something they do to the exhaust valve? So is my exhaust valve worn or the cylinder worn if the valve made contact with the piston? It didn't let go and jam into the piston, looks more like a "rub". The valve stop on the valve looks ok but I know thousanths of an inch make a difference here. If it's the cylinder worn then maybe I don't have to replace exhaust valve.
 
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kraven700

Member
rvrbum4 said:
So a resurfaced cylinder from millennium will have the stops in the cylinder or it's something they do to the exhaust valve? So is my exhaust valve worn or the cylinder worn if the valve made contact with the piston? It didn't let go and jam into the piston, looks more like a "rub". The valve stop on the valve looks ok but I know thousanths of an inch make a difference here. If it's the cylinder worn then maybe I don't have to replace exhaust valve.
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MILLENNIUM sells REBUILT jugs, which including bored straight & round & re-NICASIL'd cylinders AND new hardened seats pressed into the cylinder itself (new stops) as part of their rebuild process, no special request necessary, but you can ask to confirm

The stock original set-up has the exhaust valve "banging " into the aluminum, there were NO hardened stops or seats from the factory.

As to whether or not you need to replace your exhaust valves, depends on mileage and/or wear.

If it were me, IF the ex valves look even a little marginal, I'd throw away the old exhaust valves, (I'd hate to drop an exhaust valve in a fresh rebuild an hour down the trail) and replace with O.E.M. New, but that's your call

I usually prefer to have my cylinders rebuilt, but you can send in yours for a core and get one of theirs already done "off the shelf" provided of course it's in stock
 
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rvrbum4

New member
kraven700 said:
MILLENNIUM sells REBUILT jugs, which including bored straight & round & re-NICASIL'd cylinders AND new hardened seats pressed into the cylinder itself (new stops) as part of their rebuild process, no special request necessary, but you can ask to confirm

The stock original set-up has the exhaust valve "banging " into the aluminum, there were NO hardened stops or seats from the factory.

As to whether or not you need to replace your exhaust valves, depends on mileage and/or wear.

If it were me, IF the ex valves look even a little marginal, I'd throw away the old exhaust valves, (I'd hate to drop an exhaust valve in a fresh rebuild an hour down the trail) and replace with O.E.M. New, but that's your call

I usually prefer to have my cylinders rebuilt, but you can send in yours for a core and get one of theirs already done "off the shelf" provided of course it's in stock
Click to expand...

Good info! Thank you! I did not realize that there was that much put into a "recoated" cylinder! I did talk to Millenium and they have one in stock. You're right on the ex valve, trying to save $60 up front could cost me $600 an hour down the trail, not very wise of me to consider saving the old valve. For those that use US Chrome they happened to be $80 higher on this cylinder so I'm going with Millenium.
 
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