snowthrower/engine fogging.
- Thread starter meathead
- Start date
snowfish
Member
I just change oil, run some Sea Foam in the gas, turn off the gas, and let it die. Then pull the plug and dump a fair amount of oil in. Doesn't matter what kind. Just oil. Slowly pull it over and repeat. Re install spark plug.
Then a good clean up, lube, spray exposed metal with WD40 or similar, some Armour All or similar on the plastic & rubber, cover it up, and put it away.
Fresh gas & plug, in the fall, and you're ready to go. Have had the same blower since the late 70's.
Then a good clean up, lube, spray exposed metal with WD40 or similar, some Armour All or similar on the plastic & rubber, cover it up, and put it away.
Fresh gas & plug, in the fall, and you're ready to go. Have had the same blower since the late 70's.
Above suggestions are probably fine, but...
I have had bad luck in recent years with the carbs getting gunked up on my small engines even with fuel stabilizer, fogging, etc. This on two strokes and four strokes.
The last two years I've gone the route of putting in Sea Foam and then starting/running the engine for 5-10 minutes every 3-4 weeks. It has worked like a charm with my sled, generator, string trimmer, etc. (Of course I give them a good cleaning, silicone spray, etc.)
Now the exception is the old lawn mower that won't die. I would like to get a new one so I don't do a darn thing to it. Of course it starts on the first pull every time just to spite me!
I have had bad luck in recent years with the carbs getting gunked up on my small engines even with fuel stabilizer, fogging, etc. This on two strokes and four strokes.
The last two years I've gone the route of putting in Sea Foam and then starting/running the engine for 5-10 minutes every 3-4 weeks. It has worked like a charm with my sled, generator, string trimmer, etc. (Of course I give them a good cleaning, silicone spray, etc.)
Now the exception is the old lawn mower that won't die. I would like to get a new one so I don't do a darn thing to it. Of course it starts on the first pull every time just to spite me!
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lenny
Guest
Howdy Art, I'd fog that thing if I were you. 2 stroke, 4 stroke, diesel, they have internal parts needing a coating of oil to prevent condensation and corrosion damage. It's simple to do, do a search and follow directions and you'll have a good motor for many years. It's not a 2 stroke 4 stroke thing, it's a seasonal thing that requires the added protection.
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I'll just add that it has been my observation, that ever since the introduction of 10% ethanol in our fuel, I have had WAY better luck when I leave the gas in them. I do not drain the carbs on any of my engines. Just stable or sea foam, what ever your drug of choice, make sure you run it enough to circulate through the carb, and put it away.
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lenny
Guest
you guys are bringing up good points for the fuel system but here is where the problem is. Anytime a engine sits is it subject to condensation sitting inside the engine. Imagine a spec of corrosion on a main bearing and than asking it to spin at 8000 rps. How many years do you expect it to last? Imagine putting your seasonal engine in storage with a coating of oil on the interior of itself. It can prevent the condensation from doing it's thing on metal. Today's oils are better that years ago and do help. Have you even went into your tool box at the end of winter and find your tools cold and wet. Or do you have a diesel and the water in fuel light come on. Temps and humidity contribute to favorable buildup of condensation. The last place you want moisture to sit is inside your motor for months. Treating your fuel and running your motor is a definite plus in keeping corrosion at a minimal buildup between intervals. Most people are not going to run their engines monthly and allow them to warm up fully. We say we will but before you know it 3 months have gone by and the gas is going bad. Fogging a motor will give you piece of mind that the interior of your motor is coated, that is if you follow directions. Many of us keep getting different sleds etc,,,, before enough damage occurs and performance slips or damage is done.
MY dad had (2) Hahn Eclipse mowers from 1957, gave both to me. The one he ran he always removed the plug and poured oil down the cylinder and I used that mower till I sold it. The other mower engine locked up 20 years ago from rings seized to cylinder, main bearing was surprisingly smooth.
Bottom line, keep metal oiled or keep it moving. I personally find it easier to fog and forget than run it often, although I have done both.
MY dad had (2) Hahn Eclipse mowers from 1957, gave both to me. The one he ran he always removed the plug and poured oil down the cylinder and I used that mower till I sold it. The other mower engine locked up 20 years ago from rings seized to cylinder, main bearing was surprisingly smooth.
Bottom line, keep metal oiled or keep it moving. I personally find it easier to fog and forget than run it often, although I have done both.
indy_500
Well-known member
Puttin oil down the cylinder will eventually get in the case and leave the cylinder dry, take a piece of metal and tilt at at an angle. pour oil on it, there's hardly an oil film after a week.
This whole idea of summerizing/winterizing ANYTHING is all an opinion. There is no right or wrong answer. You'll get a # of opinions from this board, take them for what they are. Do what works best for you... It's a lot like the oil threads, we all know sea and snow sucks.........
I fog anything 2-stroke (weed eater, sleds, etc.) 4-strokes, just put 2 ounces a stabil in the gas tank, run it for a bit, and the next season, I don't start it till I change the oil, AND drain the old gas. I also run 93 octane no ethanol in all my stuff (except for the occasional sled fill-up if price diff is too high, like shells vpower costs A TON. I was a sea foam believer, until i realized you get twice the amount of stabil for the same price. I just got 2 16 oz. bottles of marvel mystery oil from menards for $5 total, but they have the rebate for em this week to make them free. I'd take advantage of it if I were you.
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snowfish
Member
Then why do you go through the trouble on your two strokes? They're the same as four strokes. Same pistons, rings, bearings etc. Oil doesn't know if it's a 2 or 4 stroke. Runs off the same. Useless hassle. Might as well just turn them off until next time.
btw, if you don't change the blower oil in the spring, there's 100% chance that your cast iron crank case is rusty on the bottom by fall. The water settles to the bottom, and yes you do have water in your oil(condensation), and rust begins.
But, like you said, just an opinion.
indy_500
Well-known member
2-stroke crank doesn't sit in a bath of oil. You do known that there's hardly ANY oil sitting in the case on a 2-stroke right? Pistons are not the same, 2-strokes are taller (longer) 4-strokes have oil rings, 2-strokes do not. lawn mower engines do not even have a SINGLE BEARING. no lie, I've ripped 3 non working motors completly apart (old and new), no needle bearings, no crank bearings, nothing. My ancient air compressor motor is the same way, no bearings. I'm taking all the goodies in for scrap, I can see money signs!!!
cast iron and aluminum = free money
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srt20
Active member
Indy, in all your wisdom, did you know that cylinders are made of steel? Did you know steel rusts? Thats why you fog a 4-stroke. I have a race car engine that has some higher end parts in it, sitting in the corner of the garage without heads on it in a bag. The cylinders were sprayed down with fogging oil 3 years ago. Guess what? No rust. A slight film is all it takes to protect.
BTW, if your crank is bathed in oil, you have way to much oil in your engine. Cranks sit above the oil level.
Pistons dont rust, they are aluminum. They can corrode though, but your cylinder walls will be garbage before that happens.
BTW, if your crank is bathed in oil, you have way to much oil in your engine. Cranks sit above the oil level.
Pistons dont rust, they are aluminum. They can corrode though, but your cylinder walls will be garbage before that happens.
indy_500
Well-known member
you may come check out my "steel cylinders" on my high quality chinese motor. They are NOT steel
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lenny
Guest
wow Indy, you previous post is one for the record books. Thanks!
The crankshaft dips into the oil pan and picks up oil you numb skull. Cars have a pick up tube and a pump like most modern larger 4 strokes for most applications, most older smaller mower engines the crankshaft picks up oil and tosses it around. I suspect Arts blower is the same, no pump.
Are you saying since you are unfamiliar with bearings your engine is frictionless? Please do not answer bud you've said enough!
The crankshaft dips into the oil pan and picks up oil you numb skull. Cars have a pick up tube and a pump like most modern larger 4 strokes for most applications, most older smaller mower engines the crankshaft picks up oil and tosses it around. I suspect Arts blower is the same, no pump.
Are you saying since you are unfamiliar with bearings your engine is frictionless? Please do not answer bud you've said enough!
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indy_500
Well-known member
I will take pics if needed. I will unwravel my scrap pile to find the crank and case just to show you there isn't a single bearing in it. Connecting rod is hooked right onto the piston pin, no bearing at all. I couldn't believe it, I texted acatzl550 about it nd he was bored so he came over, NO BEARINGS. It's metal on metal with a small oil slot to lube it up, it's kind of like a ball joint, no bearing.
And about the steel, I do realize what a magnet is. It is not magnetic therefore it's not steel or cast-iron. I took apart a briggs, and a tecumseh (wait, those aren't chinese........?.......) and both were the same way. Bearing-less, and non magnetic cylinders. None of you have probably ever wasted your time tearing apart a lawn mower engine piece by piece have you? I wasted 3 hours tonight ripping stuff apart. Why? I really do not know the answer to that one................
Remember, i'm not talking 4-strokes in general, or car engines, or something. Small little lawn mower engines that are the same size as this snowblower. I'm not trying to criticize any of you, just telling you what the insides of a little motor like this looks like. I can take pics tomorrow after school if you'd like, right now, i'm hitting the hay too. I can even take a video of a magnet hitting the case, and cylinder (not the crank, that's obviously cast), it doesn't want to attract!
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I agree with ya Indy. Most 3.5 4.5hp B@S and Tecumseh are 100% aluminum less the cam and crankshaft/valves/springs. Changing oil and air filters in these engines are a must. Most piston rings[cast iron] are scraping against aluminum walls. Now when you get into the bigger horizonal mills, they get C I liners shuved in em. Botom line, take extra care of the blowers now and they'll take care of you in November. I change the oil, run the gas out till the engine dies. Wax the chute,unit to keep down the rust. See ya in the winter.
My sentiment exactly.
That's what I do with my mower for the same reason. I have sam's club mtd that I bought 1 yr old used for $50 and it won't die. It's about 7 years old and running the same oil it came with. I did have to replace the back 2 wheels on it as they cracked off (plastic).