Trouble getting Polaris Primary off

[900RMtanK]

I've removed quite a few primary clutches and I've never had one on as tight as my 10' 800 Assault I'm currently trying to remove.

I put my 3ft breaker bar on it and before I put the removal tool in I took the grease gun and put some grease in it to try and use hydraulic pressure to help it. I've been beating on it with a hard mallet and it still won't pop.

Any suggestions?

 

[mjkaliszak]

I have also teflon taped the threads to help with the hyd action. The only suggestion I would have is the water trick. I have never tried it but let the sled sit outside and get cold then dump hot water on the clutch in between the faces on the shaft. There is a post somewhere on DT or here with specific variations of this technique. I use a 5# sledge for a tapper. Do not use an impact, it may cause problems down the road like twisting the CS out of phase. I like to pull my P's on all my sleds a couple times a year. FEW things are as frustrating as not being able to get it off, those tapers really lock together like they should.

 

[snootbiscuit]

might get a chuckle or two with this one, but "back in the day", we used to tip sled on its side, pour oil in puller area, then put puller in and put torque on and heat clutch w a torch on the center shaft between the sheaves. it did work!

 

[ezra]

got one off last week with heat/torque/rubber hammer/swearing/bitching/nothing worked went in house for a bit walked out and clutch was off only thing I could figure was clutch cooling made it pop

 

[indy_500]

Ezra's right, leave the puller in there nice and tight overnight. I did that and it came of EASY the next morning.

 

[doospunk]

might get a chuckle or two with this one, but "back in the day", we used to tip sled on its side, pour oil in puller area, then put puller in and put torque on and heat clutch w a torch on the center shaft between the sheaves. it did work!

Snoots onto it. Have used the hydraulic trick a # of times. Second poster was close, but not quite. Don't poor the hot water on the clutch. Tilt the sled to one side so you can poor a hot water from something like a kettle into the bolt shaft. (Not to much.) Wrap your puller / bolt with teflon, and a bit of grease on the tip. Torque it in and that should do the trick. Haven't heard of an instance where it was unsucessful yet.

 

[doomsman]

And now the fight begins. When you reinstall
the clutch dab a little never seize on the shaft
put the clutch on and spin it, wipe it off and install
the clutch.

 

[indy_500]

And now the fight begins. When you reinstall
the clutch dab a little never seize on the shaft
put the clutch on and spin it, wipe it off and install
the clutch.

bad idea, never put any sort of grease on the shaft, clutch will not want to seat in there and stay. Sure, it's a pita to take off again, but being on there TIGHT is a good thing.

 

[doodad]

And now the fight begins. When you reinstall
the clutch dab a little never seize on the shaft
put the clutch on and spin it, wipe it off and install
the clutch.

Yep...x2
Been doing it this way for years and never a problem.

 

[trailshredder]

I just put an Erlandson clutch kit on an 02 600 XCSP. The directions said to put never sieze on the crank before reinstalling the clutch. I have personally been against this, but after seeing that I guess it must be OK(?).

 

[ezra]

I have also put just a dab of anti seize on the shaft spread around with towel no issues in 30 yrs and have worked on some 300+hp sleds with no clutch slip

 

[likinit2]

I will run the puller up as tight as I can and if a light tap of the hammer doesn't get it I pull the belt off and start heating the clutch shaft between the sheaves before i head into the grease hydraulic trick. I have found this method to be clean and effective on stuck clutches about 95% time.