Thanks, definitely more things I need to determine and deal with that I hadn't thought about.
Building / Shop advice
- Thread starter dfattack
- Start date
dfattack
Well-known member
No not really. I was thinking 14' X 14' since a buddy of mine has that for his shop and he's a GC. He can fit everything they have in that door with no problems. Several others in this thread were suggesting a larger door so I'm looking at that obviously. I can't see going higher than 14' but maybe wider I guess. Will have to look into it. Since my last post about the doors I found a Wayne Dalton door with an R Value of 26. That's pretty impressive.
favoritos
Well-known member
The standpipe is tied in down stream from the floor drains on the same drain line. I did not install a neutralizer with the drain to daylight system.
I have to give credit to @dfattack , for his planning on the pressure relief tie in to the drain. Mine runs right beside the standpipe down to the floor.
srt20
Active member
5ft.
I have outlets at 4ft high, every 6 ft. A sheet of plywood always covers at least 1 outlet. Irritates me.
I haven't been down to the shop in a few days. Just getting over the China Flu. I'll go check the doors tomorrow. I wasn't happy when my buddy (he basically built it) told me the prices of them, but now Im very happy he was pretty adamant about them. He is a builder in this area and they are all he uses for people who want a nice building.
Those doors along with the building insulation, and my garage seems to hold heat better than my house. And Im not doggin my house, I think my house is better than most houses.
srt20
Active member
Lifetime door company. Brookfield WI
goofy600
Well-known member
Thank you
favoritos
Well-known member
As a follow up to the boiler condensate discussion, I ran the drain line into a five gallon pail to get a rough idea of volume.
I have a NTI 250 that runs snow melt when needed. The combination of cooler temps and shot of snow last week had the boiler kicking pretty good. The five gallon pail was full in less than 24 hours. When running just shop heat, it is considerably less volume. It is hard to estimate the btu loading with just shop heat, but the condensate may not fill the pail in a week. It still adds up.
Man, we need snow. I wouldn't have enough free time to even think about stuff like this if it was snowing.
I have a NTI 250 that runs snow melt when needed. The combination of cooler temps and shot of snow last week had the boiler kicking pretty good. The five gallon pail was full in less than 24 hours. When running just shop heat, it is considerably less volume. It is hard to estimate the btu loading with just shop heat, but the condensate may not fill the pail in a week. It still adds up.
Man, we need snow. I wouldn't have enough free time to even think about stuff like this if it was snowing.
A simple condensate pump can be installed next to the boiler. Pump the water any where,even outside. The acid isnt a problem in a pvc drain. Can be a problem for a small septic. It’s just lime stones that the water runs through. You can buy these pumps at Maynard’s. About $50.
Thanks, I've decided I'll just run it though PVC pipe into the floor drain system.As a follow up to the boiler condensate discussion, I ran the drain line into a five gallon pail to get a rough idea of volume.
I have a NTI 250 that runs snow melt when needed. The combination of cooler temps and shot of snow last week had the boiler kicking pretty good. The five gallon pail was full in less than 24 hours. When running just shop heat, it is considerably less volume. It is hard to estimate the btu loading with just shop heat, but the condensate may not fill the pail in a week. It still adds up.
Man, we need snow. I wouldn't have enough free time to even think about stuff like this if it was snowing.
I'm going to put a drain basin in between the trench drains and run the condensate pipe to the basket also.
This will allow access for cleaning the sediment from the garage floor drains and also to assure no back draft from the daylight drain.
I'll have to put some insulation (leaves, straw etc.) over the drain pipe outlet area during the winter months. Or perhaps there is a better way?
dfattack
Well-known member
I explained in post #46 how mine is configured and it has worked perfect for 20 years. Only issue I had is when the overflow outlet screen froze up mid winter. It became clogged and weeds grew all around it during the summer. Part of my winter prep in the fall is to ensure screen is clear. Once I started doing this I've never had a problem.
I just went back and re-read your earlier post. I think I'll do the same and bury a 50 gallon drum with the bottom cut off as you did. We're on all sand at the lake also. The overflow to grade should work well since you've been using it that way for 20 years. Thanks again!
Years ago I watched a neat old guy do this , he called it a “poor man’s trench drain”. I’ve installed this a few times and it works great.
After you rake out your final grade dig a small trench about 6” to 8” wide and about 2” to 3” deep in the location of your drain(s) , this is assuming a 4” thick concrete floor , adjust trench for thicker floors. Lay a 2” PVC pipe in the trench with it supported about 1.5” below top of concrete. Pull a string line directly over the pipe , remove string for the pour but be careful not to “lose” the nails holding your string line as you will use these nails to snap a chalk line on the finished floor. The trench ensures that there is a minimum of 2” of concrete under the pipe as well as on both sides of the pipe. When the floor is firm most people will sawcut the floor to control cracks. To create the drain you snap a line over the pipe and set the saw deep enough , about 2” , to cut into the top of the pipe. The sawcut is now your floor drain. The width of the sawcut limits the size of material that enters the buried PVC so plugging is not a problem , occasionally blast the sawcut with a a hose or pressure washer to move the sand along. You can daylight the end of the pipe or sink a plastic drum or a combination of both. When I use a drum I do not cut the bottom out but rather drill a bunch of holes in the bottom and about a half way up the side , then wrap it with a few layers of landscape cloth to prevent any soil/sand from entering the drum. Backfill the drum hole with pea rock to increase dispersion area. Keep in mind that over time you may fill the drum with sand so you may want access to clean it out. Running it daylight prevents this issue as the sand just washes out the end. It’s simple and affordable as all you are buying is the PVC and a little extra concrete.
Also , when you order ready mix they usually ask what you’re doing. When you tell them it’s a shop floor many times they will send out the standard 3500 psi mix. It cost a little more but I bump that up to 4000 or 4500 psi mix. Stronger and resists scratching. I also prefer heavy fiber over wire mesh.
After you rake out your final grade dig a small trench about 6” to 8” wide and about 2” to 3” deep in the location of your drain(s) , this is assuming a 4” thick concrete floor , adjust trench for thicker floors. Lay a 2” PVC pipe in the trench with it supported about 1.5” below top of concrete. Pull a string line directly over the pipe , remove string for the pour but be careful not to “lose” the nails holding your string line as you will use these nails to snap a chalk line on the finished floor. The trench ensures that there is a minimum of 2” of concrete under the pipe as well as on both sides of the pipe. When the floor is firm most people will sawcut the floor to control cracks. To create the drain you snap a line over the pipe and set the saw deep enough , about 2” , to cut into the top of the pipe. The sawcut is now your floor drain. The width of the sawcut limits the size of material that enters the buried PVC so plugging is not a problem , occasionally blast the sawcut with a a hose or pressure washer to move the sand along. You can daylight the end of the pipe or sink a plastic drum or a combination of both. When I use a drum I do not cut the bottom out but rather drill a bunch of holes in the bottom and about a half way up the side , then wrap it with a few layers of landscape cloth to prevent any soil/sand from entering the drum. Backfill the drum hole with pea rock to increase dispersion area. Keep in mind that over time you may fill the drum with sand so you may want access to clean it out. Running it daylight prevents this issue as the sand just washes out the end. It’s simple and affordable as all you are buying is the PVC and a little extra concrete.
Also , when you order ready mix they usually ask what you’re doing. When you tell them it’s a shop floor many times they will send out the standard 3500 psi mix. It cost a little more but I bump that up to 4000 or 4500 psi mix. Stronger and resists scratching. I also prefer heavy fiber over wire mesh.
dfattack
Well-known member
Nice post. Really like this part. Thank you
Forgot to mention that you should slope the pipe for drainage , I’ve used 1” per 10 feet but at times have only used 1” per 15+ feet. Obviously this will need a deeper trench on the discharge end of your building and the sawcut will be deeper as well.
If you daylight it put a cap on the end to keep the mice out but don’t glue it so it can be removed for cleaning , just drill a bunch of 1/4” holes for the water to get out.
If you daylight it put a cap on the end to keep the mice out but don’t glue it so it can be removed for cleaning , just drill a bunch of 1/4” holes for the water to get out.
Great stuff, thanks for the posts John.
I really appreciate the advice you guys have shared. Some great ideas!
I am not in the market for a barn currently but I would seriously look at airplane hanger doors on one end. A friend lives on a private airstrip and it makes maneuvering so much better, and you don't have issues when there's a dead truck, boat, trailer in the way. He drives in and out with his plane and doesn't have to move anything! You could utilize storage above the opening for compressor, lounge or make it a mezzanine and store off season toys. Some of these options are possible with overhead doors too, but to take advantage of all the floor space you will eventually want more doors! They are basically folding walls, so they have insulation value and smaller service doors are an option in them as well.
I also recommend big shelving, on at least one side. Nothing worse then mowers, gas cans, sleds, chainsaw totes, fishing poles, etc cluttering up the space. At least 4 feet deep, and if done right sleds, ATV's can be parked underneath.
I realize that it may not work out but I figured I would mention it so you have another thing to think about
I am not in the market for a barn currently but I would seriously look at airplane hanger doors on one end. A friend lives on a private airstrip and it makes maneuvering so much better, and you don't have issues when there's a dead truck, boat, trailer in the way. He drives in and out with his plane and doesn't have to move anything! You could utilize storage above the opening for compressor, lounge or make it a mezzanine and store off season toys. Some of these options are possible with overhead doors too, but to take advantage of all the floor space you will eventually want more doors! They are basically folding walls, so they have insulation value and smaller service doors are an option in them as well.
I also recommend big shelving, on at least one side. Nothing worse then mowers, gas cans, sleds, chainsaw totes, fishing poles, etc cluttering up the space. At least 4 feet deep, and if done right sleds, ATV's can be parked underneath.
I realize that it may not work out but I figured I would mention it so you have another thing to think about
dfattack
Well-known member
I would like to resurrect an old thread here.
Can I get some opinions, pro's and con's of metal roofs versus shingles? I will have a 5/12 pitch roof. Part of me doesn't want to spend the money for the metal roof and just put on some shingles and replace when needed. The other part of me wants to make it more permanent and not have to deal with shingles again. Are metal roofs permanent? Maintenance Free? I think I would be saving quite a bit up front if I went with shingles vs metal. Thoughts?
Lastly a roofer was telling me about Steel shingles. Anyone know about this type of roof?
Can I get some opinions, pro's and con's of metal roofs versus shingles? I will have a 5/12 pitch roof. Part of me doesn't want to spend the money for the metal roof and just put on some shingles and replace when needed. The other part of me wants to make it more permanent and not have to deal with shingles again. Are metal roofs permanent? Maintenance Free? I think I would be saving quite a bit up front if I went with shingles vs metal. Thoughts?
Lastly a roofer was telling me about Steel shingles. Anyone know about this type of roof?