Indy's Truck!

indy_500

Well-known member
Got a question...

My AC is shot and it makes a good amount of noise. I saw a diagram that shows how the serpentine belt runs and 1 is with the AC and one is without. Could I get a new shorter belt and bypass the AC?
 

Skylar

Super Moderator
Staff member
Got a question...

My AC is shot and it makes a good amount of noise. I saw a diagram that shows how the serpentine belt runs and 1 is with the AC and one is without. Could I get a new shorter belt and bypass the AC?

I think so, I know I can on my Dodge 2500.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Looks like I can't. I'll be getting the A/C Compressor Bypass Pulley and a new serpentine belt. My belts a tad cracked/worn...
 
Looks like I can't. I'll be getting the A/C Compressor Bypass Pulley and a new serpentine belt. My belts a tad cracked/worn...

If just the compressor is shot its super easy to change, like an alternator easy. Then just get it charged. But if the coil in the cab has a hole in it the whole dash has to come out. I've done it by myself, but it took a very long time and a mechanic buddy gave me some great pointers about the airbag so it wouldn't go off when I was just driving down the road.
 

Magnumb

Active member
I'm on my 4th of this body style. I had 2 95s a 97 and a 98.
The TBI is my choice; little underpowered but just an unbeliveable truck. Up the fuel pressure to 13.5 and install hypertech power charger with an under pulley kit and she really feels better over 2800 rpm. With the vortec you watch out for that intake gasket leak. The really messed up with that plastic but so did a lot of other makes when they started to swicth over.
If you change your fuel filter and dont run on empty all the time the AC fuel pumps can last a long time.
I found letting off the gas just a little to make the computer shift gears seems to be easier on the trans and gaas mileage.


The oil cooler lines can be fixed if you cut the flare and use a couple breeze brand hose clamps. Just be sure to clean the oil off the hose and metal before installing the clamps.

I would also install braided front rear brake lines. Very easy to install and reduces the soft brake feel.

I've also had a couple of 90s Ford trucks and they are ok just some electrical problems and the trans never felt as nice with higer mileage.
 

Magnumb

Active member
Got a question...

My AC is shot and it makes a good amount of noise. I saw a diagram that shows how the serpentine belt runs and 1 is with the AC and one is without. Could I get a new shorter belt and bypass the AC?

You may want to look at the belt tensioner. I will make noise only when the AC is on. You could try a shorter belt or a new tensioner. Sounds like a rattleing noise. I thought It was the AC compressor at 1st
 

Magnumb

Active member
You may want to look at the belt tensioner. I will make noise only when the AC is on. You could try a shorter belt or a new tensioner. Sounds like a rattleing noise. I thought It was the AC compressor at 1st

sORRY, your AC is not working at all. Mine works just was noisy.
 

acatzl550

New member
Not to scare you of that truck but I have a 94, pretty much samething, interested difference is you have the vortec motor and 4L80E trans. But pay attention to the oil cooler lines, they will leak and are a pain to change. You can remove them completely and not worry. I took them off mine after I put a new motor in cuz mine took a main bearing and bearing material will not come out of the cooler completely. Another thing is water pumps, buddy of mine is on his 3rd pump and truck is just under 200k. Fuel pump will be another problem. If you do replace, go with the AC Delco brand. I put one in on mine from advanced auto and it lasted 6 months. Pay attention to radiator side tanks. They will leak. Intake gaskets as well. Another thing I do is when I change oil, is that I change the fuel filter. Yes it may seem crazy to do but it does extend the life of the pump. These are some things that I have ran into on mine and I've had mine for 10 yrs.

this truck actually has the 4L60E tranny
 

jr37

Well-known member
You may want to look at the belt tensioner. I will make noise only when the AC is on. You could try a shorter belt or a new tensioner. Sounds like a rattleing noise. I thought It was the AC compressor at 1st

My GMC a/c made noise a couple years ago, it turned out to be the tensioner.
Maybe it's a GM thing.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
It makes the noise all the time. I'm 100 % positive it's not the tensioner and is the A/C compressor. I'm not buying a brand new compressor and get it recharged in a $1600 truck.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
Indy check tensioner first. I've put 2 on my truck. My bad on the tranny. Thought after 96 is when they went to the 4L80E.

Got done a few hours ago and have 25 miles on it already. It was definatly the compressor, when i spin it by hand it sounds TERRIBLE! The truck idles quieter and when I pull up somewhere, someone won't be going "listen to that thing" anymore. As of right now, I just have the hood left to paint red. Next on the list is tires, but that's a ways away until I get those. I will probably check out the driver side tilt. I read its common, I'm not too worried about it.
 

indy_500

Well-known member
About once a week I noticed a drop of coolant on the garage floor. My coolant level was going down VERY slow. Traced it to the intake gasket which is super common. Some was dripping down the side of the motor burning off. Some was getting in the engine (i saw rust on my plastic oil filler neck), and if I started my truck up on the driveway to move it into the garage, that's the only time I ever got it to drip. So what do I do? Go buy an intake gasket kit for $26.99. Start ripping it apart. I have everything pushed aside, labeled, etc. I just have the upper manifold, the intake, and the distributor left. I had a zip tie labeling every stinkin wire. I go to take off the heater hose fitting and it snaps. I worked on taking it out for 4 hours. I bought a larger extractor, applied TONS of heat, tried chiseling it out, and taking a hacksaw to it. No go. I bought the new heater fitting also, which is steel unlike the old one. I finally give up and my dad says lets take it somewhere. :(
 

Hoosier

Well-known member
About once a week I noticed a drop of coolant on the garage floor. My coolant level was going down VERY slow. Traced it to the intake gasket which is super common. Some was dripping down the side of the motor burning off. Some was getting in the engine (i saw rust on my plastic oil filler neck), and if I started my truck up on the driveway to move it into the garage, that's the only time I ever got it to drip. So what do I do? Go buy an intake gasket kit for $26.99. Start ripping it apart. I have everything pushed aside, labeled, etc. I just have the upper manifold, the intake, and the distributor left. I had a zip tie labeling every stinkin wire. I go to take off the heater hose fitting and it snaps. I worked on taking it out for 4 hours. I bought a larger extractor, applied TONS of heat, tried chiseling it out, and taking a hacksaw to it. No go. I bought the new heater fitting also, which is steel unlike the old one. I finally give up and my dad says lets take it somewhere. :(

Well that sucks! Hope you can get it back together.
 
You talkin bout the fitting on the back rht hand side of the intake? If so good luck. I did the samething. Finally got pissed and got a different intake. Truck now has a new motor so I'm not worried bout it happenin again anytime soon.
 
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