Regardless of the Dyno results on a limited number of one brand of sled, I think there is a strong case for using a manufacture recommended oil, or a high quality equivalent, I know some oil smokes more than others, which means it is putting out more carbon and particulates which has a negative effect on exhaust valves, and probably carbon buildup in the cylinders. Look at the new Cat oil for the 600 CTEC engine, It is a lot lighter than any other 2 cycle oils out there. I would think it would be very risky to run anything else, at least until the high quality manufacturers come out with a product that has the same specs and viscosity. I'm definitely not saying everyone should run the manufacturer labeled oils, but I do believe that oil makes a difference, and not all oils are created equal, even if they have the same certifications.
Oil and breakin doesnt matter? dynotech says otherwise
- Thread starter momoney2123
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momoney2123
New member
Polaris cfi supplies little to no oil when idling and has proven to be an issue when people let it warm up thinking at 120 degrees they are OK and hammer down there is no oil and it seizes up or scores the piston and the will eventually lose compression. This issue is magnified if you constantly start and engine all summer long and just let it idle.
srt20
Active member
Not many of the current engines supply a lot of oil at idle. It's not a design flaw on Poo part. It's from the EPA. There is an easy fix, turn up the oil pump. IIRC, there is a programmer on the market to do this with the Axys and the electric controlled pump.
I agree not to hammer on it as soon as it hits 120*. The Pistons and cylinders aren't up to temp yet either.
We could debate all month long on oil. But can you prove to me that OEM is better than Mystik or Legend? You can't. Just like I can't prove to you that Mystik or Legend is better. And Dyno Jim, Indy Dan, or anybody else can't prove it either. They can go by experince, but look at Indy Dan changing his mind on oil last year. All these years he thought he was right, and turns out he wasn't.
momoney2123
New member
It is a design flaw. Not an issue for rotax or Suzuki. EPA doesn't tell them how ,when or where to supply oil. If you have to turn up the oil pump on a bone stock engine, you have an issue. not to mention the performance aspect of too much oil.
the 120 number was just a number outa the blue. it could be middle of summer and everything is warmed up. If you let the Polaris CFI idle for a prolonged period it is starved of oil, does not matter what temp. now you take off and give her full throttle and you score the cylinder/piston. This happened to a ton of poo engines.....real world...hence a design flaw. Yes they were trying to probably please the EPA, but they engineered it in a way that was destined for doom.
Yup go with the oil you want.
C
Cirrus_Driver
Guest
On one hand you're not supposed to ride it till in warms to +110 degree's, and on the other hand, "don't let it idle"? (600 CFI)
What I am I supposed to do, stand there and blip the throttle every 10 seconds for 7-8 minutes till I hit temp?
RE - your post below, I've been doing that for 20 years. Very conservative with my machines.
What I am I supposed to do, stand there and blip the throttle every 10 seconds for 7-8 minutes till I hit temp?
RE - your post below, I've been doing that for 20 years. Very conservative with my machines.
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momoney2123
New member
No, let it idle up to temp like normal, just don't go like a bat outa **** right away. once you do get going Vary throttle and get the oil flowing into cylinder before you crank on it..
Good gawd.... Do you guys put this much thought into breaking in your new weed eater,chain saw,lawn mower??? Let me guess,you spend $19.99 on a oil change on your 40k Truck a few times a year,but your 5k sled needs $48.00 a gal magic hp oil. Just a FWI,it's only a 15K sled when it's on the show room floor. 10k when you take it for its first rip. Before you wear out the Power Ranger out fit you bought to match the 15k sled,the sled may be worth 5k. Just the facts Mam.........
well I actually had it on my buds land and sea after first tank of fuel and cat oil in tank . then it was on again after mods were in and about 60mi on them same day.
then again before more mods next yr and 450mi hard mi and sea and snow 1.5 peek loss and about 3 more mid, now those numbers are in a shop doors open dyno at actual out door temp after actually ridding to heat soak .I would put any land and sea at give or take 3hp window
how about humidity on tested days ? I know for a fact his climate control in shop was out for a bit so were any tested then . again buy what u want but any given sled tested the same day morning noon and night will give a 2 or 3 hp swing
momoney2123
New member
Well if you wana state facts, my 40k truck gets free oil changes, but if I had to pay it would be about 60 dollars. no way id put cheap oil in that either.
yea you wana get weed eaters broke in right so when you go on that trip to cabin it doesn't leave you stranded knee deep in da weeds and when you race your neighbor at who can cut the most weeds in quarter mile you should be sure its performing up to its fullest capabilities..
Bud bought a 15K xrs gade 800etec last year and rode it the whole season and sold it for 12,500 this fall....just the facts...mam lol
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story changes....I duno what to think anymore. hard to follow the dyno testing. think ill stick with the data hand documented by a professional vs back yard bill running 5 different oils with shop door open