Polaris Fusion 600 - changing jets and reinstalling airbox

[Hoosier]

Next weekend I'm going to change the jets in my Polaris Fusion 600 (back to stock, as the last time I rode it was in Wyoming and I had a dealer out there rejet it). I am not too concerned about the rejetting part, and I'll have some help from someone with quite a bit of sled experience, but I was told many times the airbox is a major PITA to reinstall. I seem to remember someone saying the process can be made easier with some grease...any tips???

I think I'm going to leave the jets stock, although I've been told it would run better with 410's as opposed to the stock 420's. Unless here someone talks me out of it. I may later add the ATAAC kit, which is supposed to work with the stock low elevation/low temp jetting (which would be the 420's), but I'll probably hold off this year as I'm only going to be able to ride for one 4 day trip this year and am a little short on funds right now...

 

[Drewma]

First tip would to be to buy and install an SLP hi flow air horn while box is removed. Nearly impossible to know if carb boots are around box fittings without SLP kit. You may get lucky and have boots seat but I don't think you will be 100% certain. With SLP kit you can put your hands inside air box and feel if carb boots are seated correct. I have read and seen on Hardcore Sledder that there is a nut/bolt on shaft that box slips over that stops box from seating correctly. There were photos on that site. Author of post said to take a Dremmel and file air box where nut/bolt hit shaft mounting flange, just do not grind thru. Should see wear mark on bottom side of air box. Good luck

 

[Hoosier]

First tip would to be to buy and install an SLP hi flow air horn while box is removed. Nearly impossible to know if carb boots are around box fittings without SLP kit. You may get lucky and have boots seat but I don't think you will be 100% certain. With SLP kit you can put your hands inside air box and feel if carb boots are seated correct. I have read and seen on Hardcore Sledder that there is a nut/bolt on shaft that box slips over that stops box from seating correctly. There were photos on that site. Author of post said to take a Dremmel and file air box where nut/bolt hit shaft mounting flange, just do not grind thru. Should see wear mark on bottom side of air box. Good luck

http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/instructions14115.pdf

Sorry, I know I have asked about this kit before on here, but I couldn't find the thread for some reason...is the above the kit you are talking about? Do I need to buy anything in addition to this? I am not shooting for big performance gains, but if this is the only way to ensure the box gets back on, I'll look into it. There is a jetting note on the instructions to go up 2 sizes on the main jet and one step richer on the e-clip. Anything have experience with this? Or should I just call SLP directly? Thanks.

One more question - we will also be rejetting my friend's 07 IQ600 at the same time. Does this sled have the same issues with the airbox? I haven't looked under the hood of that sled in a long time, but I think the airbox set-up is the same.

 

[zimmbob]

Drewma is right. You have to gut the box and put the kit in. That makes the re-installation 100 times easier. I had that sled. The stock jets are known to be very rich.

 

[Hoosier]

Drewma is right. You have to gut the box and put the kit in. That makes the re-installation 100 times easier. I had that sled. The stock jets are known to be very rich.

I think we posted at the same time...did you rejet when you used that kit?

 

[Snirtdawg]

I did the kit and rejeted to .410's much better and easier to reinstall.

 

[Drewma]

http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/instructions14115.pdf

Sorry, I know I have asked about this kit before on here, but I couldn't find the thread for some reason...is the above the kit you are talking about? Do I need to buy anything in addition to this? I am not shooting for big performance gains, but if this is the only way to ensure the box gets back on, I'll look into it. There is a jetting note on the instructions to go up 2 sizes on the main jet and one step richer on the e-clip. Anything have experience with this? Or should I just call SLP directly? Thanks.

One more question - we will also be rejetting my friend's 07 IQ600 at the same time. Does this sled have the same issues with the airbox? I haven't looked under the hood of that sled in a long time, but I think the airbox set-up is the same.

Hoosier,
That is the kit I used on my '06 600. As far as re jetting, this sled was known to come out of the factory real rich, kind of had a low end gurgle to it, then eventually cleared itself out as you accelerated. I do not remember the recipe to fix the gurgle, but I know the air screw gets turned, the pilot air jet gets changed and it seems like one other thing to do. It will run MUCH better if you have the gurgle. Sorry it has been a while since I did this and can't remember precisely enough to tell you what to do.
I would guess the '07 will have the same issue. From what I have read the '07 is the '06 chassis with IQ plastic. Some guys have actually changed there Fusions to IQ's.

 

[indy_500]

Everywhere I go these Fusions and IQ carbed sleds are SOO much easier to reinstall the air box with the slp air box kit. I'd also recommend going to 410s that will still be PLENTY rich and you'll gain a little bit of mpg too

 

[Hoosier]

Everywhere I go these Fusions and IQ carbed sleds are SOO much easier to reinstall the air box with the slp air box kit. I'd also recommend going to 410s that will still be PLENTY rich and you'll gain a little bit of mpg too

So go with the 410's and the air box kit???

 

[indy_500]

So go with the 410's and the air box kit???

That's exactly what I'd do if it were mine. Should run great anywhere from Illinois all the way up to Michigan.

 

[zimmbob]

I had a loading problem with mine when it would idle warm. So if we were riding, then stop and idle for more than about 30 seconds, it would load up and then when i hit the throttle it would just bog out. The dealer did something to fix it, and I just don't remember what it was.

But yes, go to 410's and gut the box. The kit is really just an air horn for the hood, and pull out the horns on the inside. have to cut apart the box and then zip tie it back together, but it's well worth it.

 

[Hoosier]

Thanks for the tips. Any other advice on the other settings? From what I've found on other sites, these sleds seem to do well with: 410 main jet (although I see 400 quite a bit also), 0.8 pilot air jet, 35 pilot jet, and needle at #3. Fuel screw 1 turn out. All that seem about right?

 

[indy_500]

Thanks for the tips. Any other advice on the other settings? From what I've found on other sites, these sleds seem to do well with: 410 main jet (although I see 400 quite a bit also), 0.8 pilot air jet, 35 pilot jet, and needle at #3. Fuel screw 1 turn out. All that seem about right?

From what I can tell yes, but I wouldn't go lower than 410s for your sake if you don't want to have to rejet a lot.

 

[ezra]

just gut the air box and call it a day. u dont need the horn the foam is more than enough of a seal . I never did the horn and know of a few others who just gutted box and called it a day.
the Rmk I road last yr had the same mods gears jets as a buds he did slp horn I just gutted could not tell the diff.
we did both add a extra dash vent and coverd with frog skinz .
that box is the worst to get on if not gutted

 

[Hoosier]

just gut the air box and call it a day. u dont need the horn the foam is more than enough of a seal . I never did the horn and know of a few others who just gutted box and called it a day.
the Rmk I road last yr had the same mods gears jets as a buds he did slp horn I just gutted could not tell the diff.
we did both add a extra dash vent and coverd with frog skinz .
that box is the worst to get on if not gutted

Sorry for being stupid...what is involved with gutting the airbox? Splitting and taking the baffles or whatever is inside out of it???

 

[Hoosier]

From what I can tell yes, but I wouldn't go lower than 410s for your sake if you don't want to have to rejet a lot.

Yeah, the goal would be to set it once and not deal with rejetting unless/until I took it back to ride at altitude.

 

[indy_500]

Yeah, the goal would be to set it once and not deal with rejetting unless/until I took it back to ride at altitude.

I would definatly not go lower than 410 then.

 

[ezra]

Sorry for being stupid...what is involved with gutting the airbox? Splitting and taking the baffles or whatever is inside out of it???

yep that is it.just split it open it will be a pita u will prob bust a few clips no big thing I used permatex around whole thing then pushed together that thing will never come apart now.
so once open just pull out baffles and foam then put back together.
now U can reach in side will make life way more EZ to do carb maintenance

 

[Skylar]

I had a 2007 RMK 600 carbed. I had the SLP air box kit, and I was jetted at 400's. good to -10, I never had an issue, BUT, I won't ride if it is colder than -10 anyways. LOL.

 

[tgun]

Hoosier-is your jetting 100 stock? If so~just change your pilot air jet to 1 and dial in your fuel screws to start . This alone makes a huge difference in performance. If you think it's still rich then change the main to a 410. As for the air box a little grease and a telescope mirror works well to ensure the boots are on good.