2 Stroke oils

M

motor_slut

New member
I call it how I see it. And how I see it is you are a very uneducated man. So your opinion has no clout on the subject matter. That is just my opinion.
 
R

russholio

Well-known member
interesting, but.....bottom line is how many folks truely have oil related failures? not counting runing the machine out of oil that is. Most engine guys will tell you that there are very, very few over the years in various machines (including a PWC) i've run doo mineral, doo semi syn, doo full syn, klotz, spectro, legend, amsoil, and sea and snow (sorry, Indy and PR1). Not one oil related failure in tens of thousands of miles in fact, only one failure at all and that was because a grenaded belt trashed my outer PTO seal, And at that time I was unaware such a thing could happen and didn't know enough to check it.

call me pickey, but personaly I'm a bit skeptical of a guy who calls himself The Chemist implying that he has a background in chemical engineering yet can't use proper spelling, gramar, or punctuation.

if you use an oil that meets the specs called for by the OEM then oil is oil. nope i'm not switching.

There, I've edited my original post to more closely resemble the elementary school level of writing exhibited by "The Chemist". Is it now more believable?
 
indy_500

indy_500

Well-known member
thebreeze said:
Hey indy, why klotz?
Click to expand...

polarisrider1 said:
Indy we already know the S&S part. I thought you was an Amsoil man?? I switched to Polaris VES Gold Plus this year. (got 3 1/2gallons for $40). Fireside sale, should hold me for part of the winter. Did you get a deal on Klotz?
Click to expand...

Take some sheet metal and stand it up. Put a few drops of oil of any brand on the sheet metal and see how long it stays on there. Amsoil & Poo VES GOLD is gone quick. Klotz probably sticks for the longest of any synthetic snowmobile 2-cycle oil. Synthetic Blends and Mineral oils stay on the longest, why? Simple, they're thicker. Does that mean they are better? Yes and no. They have their plusses and minuses, one being they cling to metal, keeping your bottom end lubricated as long as possible. But, they dirty up exhaust valves, and don't flow as well in cold weather. Might I add, have you ever smelled Klotz? :)

I may be forgetting something... Oh yeah, 800 miles after switching from arctic blue to citgo sea and snow, my pto crank bearing was shot, tore the pto crank seal to shreds. Was it oil related? Who knows, all I can say is I'm never putting that stuff in my sleds again.

I paid $35 a gallon btw. Have a half gallon of poo ves gold to run out that came with my 500. Started my sleds the other day. 700 ran like a raped ape on the stand with the new clutching. Don't know if I will ever want to get rid of that beast.
 
Last edited:
X

xcsp

Member
Indy_500, why did you switch from Arctic Blue to S&S ?

Here's "the chemist's" latest:

TESTED: Legend ZX-2SR: First off under the microscope this oil is not a synthetic oil, but an ultra pure highly refined mineral oil, the molecules are very small, the pour point was -54f. R.P.M. before brake down of the oil viscosity and film strength is unknown. My test unit only goes to 16,000 R.P.M. and the oil never broke down. This oil is going to be my new oil in my new rush switchback 800, and yes i checked the oil three times in my machines this oil is the best i have tested.
 
F

Firecatguy

New member
indy_500 said:
Take some sheet metal and stand it up. Put a few drops of oil of any brand on the sheet metal and see how long it stays on there. Amsoil & Poo VES GOLD is gone quick. Klotz probably sticks for the longest of any synthetic snowmobile 2-cycle oil. Synthetic Blends and Mineral oils stay on the longest, why? Simple, they're thicker. Does that mean they are better? Yes and no. They have their plusses and minuses, one being they cling to metal, keeping your bottom end lubricated as long as possible. But, they dirty up exhaust valves, and don't flow as well in cold weather. Might I add, have you ever smelled Klotz? :)

I may be forgetting something... Oh yeah, 800 miles after switching from arctic blue to citgo sea and snow, my pto crank bearing was shot, tore the pto crank seal to shreds. Was it oil related? Who knows, all I can say is I'm never putting that stuff in my sleds again.

I paid $35 a gallon btw. Have a half gallon of poo ves gold to run out that came with my 500. Started my sleds the other day. 700 ran like a raped ape on the stand with the new clutching. Don't know if I will ever want to get rid of that beast.
Click to expand...

I run SS in my sled and cleaned the valves yesterday....have no plan of switching after seeing how clean they burned.....bummer so many have to take this so personally around here
 
E

ezra

Well-known member
I have also been running S&S for many yrs with no issues. I deff do not ride like a grandma plan on sticking with it.I own nothing that that runs at 16000 rpm so I think I am ok.and power valves are always clean no scraping no sticky gummy goo just clean
 
E

ezra

Well-known member
so pr1 that is a place the oil thread has never gone before and prob never again lol
 
E

ezra

Well-known member
there is a place the oil thread has never gone PR1.Black gold Texas Tea oil that is.
and yes 1gade it is the doo's fault for using a sealed bearing in a crank case
 
S

salmonbum

New member
I have bee running sea ands snow for quite some time now in my Xp and Rev and the rave valves look the way I want them to.

I just have a hard time listening to some kids advise on how his 10 yr old sled failed on it right after an oil switch. I would bet a hamburger that oil had nothing to do with it. But that's enough evidence to call it junk? I have been huffing 2 stroke smoke twice as long has he's been on this planet, so I think I will trust myself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top