All types of metal and asphalt shingle roof materials. I elected asphalt shingles with 50 year warranty reasonable cost and no problems for me in my lifetime. Warranty was transferable to next home owner. I had to laugh when I saw shingles with 15 year warranty lucky to get 10 without leakage.
Building / Shop advice
- Thread starter dfattack
- Start date
dfattack, I would have thought the shop up already and full of toys lol! decisions, decisions and wanting to do it right the first time, I don't envy you in that process, Wife and I have been researching building a "barndominium" I can see you racking your mind just building a shop, so many options available. Have been researching plans and building a home and shop within basically a "shop" type building having the same challenges. Good luck to you my friend!
pclark
Well-known member
I myself am in the planning stages of a 32 x 40 garage/shop. I held off this year because of material prices and it appears that it will payoff to start it next Spring as prices look to come down. I did however, help my neighbor build his 32x24 garage this summer. It was a kit from Menards, pretty basic, 4/12 pitch roof with asphalt shingles. We built it from the ground up after the slab was poured (the concrete guy out in a nice PVC drain that worked nice and drained out of the back of the garage). It was a great learning experience for all 3 of us, 2 70 year olds and a 65 year old. Built and raised the walls first, sheathed the sides with OSB, lifted the trusses up hand and placed in one morning. The owner decided to have the roof sheathed and shingled by a roofing company. Then came the exterior wrap, windows, siding, trim, and garage door. It was started in late July and completed by mid October. I was very impressed with the Menards kit to be honest.
I did my research this spring on metal vs. shingle and we went a metal roof on our house and garage in Presque Isle Wisconsin. Shingle roof was 22 years old. The house is 28 X 44, and the garage is 24 X 40. We went with 26-gauge snap lock standing seam on 17-inch centers with titanium underlayment and new drip edge, gable edge, and complete ridge venting. Both of the shingle roofs were removed by roofers, cost $2000. Final cost was $23, 500. I had three estimates from roofers for shingle which averaged about $16,000. We went with the metal because I'm tired about worrying about the snow load on the roof and having to have it shoveled in February and March yearly. Also, the warranty on the metal and paint is 40 years from manufacturer which I will never see, and 2 years complete workmanship by roofing company. My kids won't have to ever worry about it after I'm gone. The metal is not loud with the rain and does not interfere with cell or internet signal. Only problem with the metal is forget about ever going up there and walking on it. I tried it to stain the chimney and learned the hard way. Very slick and slippery. We will see this winter if the snow slides off of it as quick as I did.
dfattack
Well-known member
I was all set to go last winter/spring but then material prices went nuts and so I didn't want to overpay. I paused on the architect redrawing the larger design. Just started talking to the architect again and should have plans within the next month or so. I'm taking my time on this one. I've recently purchased an old 1953 Chris craft that has been in the family since the 1950's and need to get it restored. Learning how you shouldn't store them in a heated building so I'm trying to figure that one out too. Dynamics keep changing so trying to get it right. The place where I used to store my enclosed trailer is hinting he wants me out soon so need to start moving again on the barn. Still don't know what I want to call it since it's not technically a "shop". I'm not working in it or out of it.
dfattack
Well-known member
Good info. Never thought about how slick the roof can get.
I'm not experienced at all with metal roofs. Does yours have screws? I've heard about some that have screws and they tend to leak unless you go up and caulk all of the screw heads. I'm assuming there are different kinds of metal roofs??
dfattack
Well-known member
I held off too. No way I was going to pay 50% or even 100% more for materials. Wanted to wait until we came back to somewhat normal prices. Looks like we should be good to go soon...hopefully.
pclark
Well-known member
My hope as well, good luck with the project, lots of good advice in this thread.
dfattack
Well-known member
Keep an eye out for leaks going forward. A friend of mine had the same rubber washers, but with time and sun the rubber dried out and allowed water to start leaking inside.
A big part about metal roofs and how the fasteners work (and quality of them,, like all things there are GOOD brands and cheap china junk now on metal roof screws, not to mention NOT all of them are so self tapping, some will drive you NUTS when installing, or need pretty much pre drilled holes to go thru, as to good ones, will make the job easier and last, quality matters in all things)
or last is, how well the installer is with usi8ng them, they cannot be tightened too tight, or you will get failures, , you do Not want to crush the washer, that is what causes them to dry rot and fail!
when done right and of good quality, they will last decades and not need any repairs
unless MAYBE some may need to be re tightened as wood will shrink and expand at times,
but again, a good installer will torque them to the right amount which allsows for that!
or last is, how well the installer is with usi8ng them, they cannot be tightened too tight, or you will get failures, , you do Not want to crush the washer, that is what causes them to dry rot and fail!
when done right and of good quality, they will last decades and not need any repairs
unless MAYBE some may need to be re tightened as wood will shrink and expand at times,
but again, a good installer will torque them to the right amount which allsows for that!
When I did my research I was concerned about the screws leaking at some point in the future. That is why I went with the standing seam metal roof. No exposed screws. The sides of each panel are screwed to roof sheeting and the next panel overlaps it with a standing, (raised rib) seam and snaps into place on prior panel. Look at the roof of a McDonalds. Every one that I have seen has a standing seam metal roof. Cost of the standing seam vs. ribbed screwed panels was a little more but now I won't have to worry about leaky screws.
dfattack
Well-known member
Well that's helpful info. I did not realize there were different types of metal roofs so thank you.
wiviperman
Active member
Very good information being provided here about the metal roofs! I was very interested in having a metal roof installed on my log cabin in Price County. After attempting to find an installer, the nearest was from Minocqua, and their quote was almost 3 times the cost of asphalt shingles in 2018. I ended up having the asphalt shingles replaced, the roofing company that I used did tell me that they have had more leak repairs on metal roofs than they did with asphalts. I somewhat got the feeling that this installer just didn't like or worked with metal roofs much so that opinion is just that, an opinion! Really, if I could have afforded the metal roof, I would have gone that route just to avoid the future replacement.
I guess there is always "next time"!
I guess there is always "next time"!
pclark
Well-known member
It is interesting why they cost so much more because if you look at materials they are pretty close in price so it's labor that is driving the price up I think.
Or it could be the fact as you say a lot of roofers don't like change and metal roofs are a lot different, hard to install in the wind, bad weather, very slippery vs just scraping off old shingles and nail gunning the new asphalt shingles down sometimes in a 1/2 day depending on the structure. A lot of people had their roofs replaced up here this fall and everyone was asphalt shingles, not metal and we are in the snowbelt. But, there are plenty of existing metal roofs as well.
I would consider metal on a simple shop roof, when you get into a metal roof with a bunch of flashing details and valleys is when you better make sure the company is good and experienced with metal. I have seen some hack jobs out there. A freind of mine had his farm all re done by a Amish crew, man it was rouigh.
Floor heat is 100% the way to go and it's efficient. When you open a door you don't lose all of your heat either. I built a 52x80 with vaulted ceiling and a mezzanine for all of my 90's race sleds I use to run. I used 16 foot R26 doors to eliminate heat loss. The doors and windows are your most common areas of heat loss as you all know. The standard door is only R9!! My contractor didn't even know at the time that you could get R26 doors. They were 3,000 more a piece, but worth every damn penny. Good luck Brian! You're going to enjoy that when it's complete. I also used a LP Weiler boiler which you can't even hear when it runs and it's a wall hanger so no floor space used up. They work awesome. We have them at the Motorsports and Heavy Equipment dealership as well.
dfattack
Well-known member
Does anyone here have experience with the relationship between temperature and humidity and it's effects on the framing of a structure? I'm aware of the basic understanding of the condensation on the windows we get when temps drop outside and relative humidity needs to lower to avoid condensation on the windows and eventually the wood framing, but I want to go a little deeper than that.
What I'm trying to do now is to build a garage within a garage to store an old Chris craft which needs a higher humidity throughout the winter to avoid seams splitting. I've read that it's ideal to store it outside over gravel. That's not my first choice. Once it's restored it will be worth more and I want it secure not only from thieves but from mice. Don't really want it to freeze either. I've read where ideally 60% humidity is the sweet spot, but If i keep this garage withing a garage at this humidity (60%) and say at 45-50 degrees (with the rest of the garage in the 60's) will I be causing damage from condensation in the walls? What If I spray foam the wall cavities? I know there are some on here that have knowledge in a wide variety of expertise and was hoping someone could help.
What I'm trying to do now is to build a garage within a garage to store an old Chris craft which needs a higher humidity throughout the winter to avoid seams splitting. I've read that it's ideal to store it outside over gravel. That's not my first choice. Once it's restored it will be worth more and I want it secure not only from thieves but from mice. Don't really want it to freeze either. I've read where ideally 60% humidity is the sweet spot, but If i keep this garage withing a garage at this humidity (60%) and say at 45-50 degrees (with the rest of the garage in the 60's) will I be causing damage from condensation in the walls? What If I spray foam the wall cavities? I know there are some on here that have knowledge in a wide variety of expertise and was hoping someone could help.